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Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 3:51 pm
by gvickery
But is not correct for the Tiger!

Graham
STOC Editor

Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 4:39 pm
by martin172
gvickery wrote:But is not correct for the Tiger!

Graham
STOC Editor
You're right but I've always thought that the steering wheel is one thing on a car where you can be individual and it doesn't really hurt.

Also, the correct wheels cost a fortune. :shock:

Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 5:48 pm
by Tomaselli
I think the a steering wheel with a recess/dish in the spokes is a better (subject to personal taste) fit. You might get away with a flat wheel as per the earlier eBay listing. I could be wrong but it's what I personally prefer....

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Agree with Martin, the factory original wheel fetch a lot of money, usually up to £400 for a good restored one.

Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 1:45 pm
by Brad1380
No rush for the wheel at the moment, i'll keep an eye out for a proper one, but good to know that a repro one is available.

Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 8:36 am
by gtsmrt
While I am lucky to still own the original steering wheel as Tony suggested, I also like my Moto-lita steering. I have had the wood style, but their leather wheels are also fantastic. As with Tony it's a personal thing. :)

Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 3:07 pm
by Brad1380
Took the other wishbone out of the tank today & found that both fulcrum bosses have come away from the wishbone about 50% each, so that they don't line up anymore.
Can i hammer these straight again then run a weld around the boss or is it just best to get a replacement wishbone?

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Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 3:18 pm
by martin172
Do you have a manual Brad?
There are the dimensions for the wishbones in there.
If you can get them back in and to the dimensions, I don't personally see why you can't reuse them.

I had similar probs with mine.

BTW, if you have a Dyson cleaner, the metal tube is a very close fit in the bosses for alignment purposes. :lol:

Edited for bda speling

Wishbone/A arms

Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 4:06 pm
by 0neoffive
Note: The assembled fulcrum provides the exact inner dimensions by application. This was engineered that way on purpose (or by dumb accident). I noticed that in the photo, the outer bushing collar is still in the wishbone and should be removed before any new bushing attempt. The un-assembled wishbone wings bend fairly easy and should re-align well with a bit of vise/crowbar/hammer massage.

Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 6:47 pm
by Brad1380
Have a manual, though not looked at it much..

Only knocked through one side as the washer on the other was a bit large, this is also the insert which is most out of alignment so i'm sure it was prior damage.

So just re-align them then put a weld to hold them?

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Notches

Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 8:42 pm
by 0neoffive
FYI: Note the notches in the fulcrum for the mount bolts. The end with the shortest distance between the notch and the bushing goes toward the front of the wish . . . . .I only say this because several have come into the shop for re-alignment only to discover that one side (or both) are installed backwards.

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:01 pm
by Brad1380
Well haven't had a lot of time of late to play with the Tiger & i certainly wasn't going to spend any summer days in the garage scraping underseal. So some minor progress on the bits i could drag outside.

Was getting fed up tripping over these, so a dunk in the tank first.

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Wire brushed.
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Held together with bolts whilst the capheads are on order.
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Relocated the water bucket.
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Wire brushed.
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Upper wishbones out of the tank drying off in the sun.
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Uprated springs ready for paint.
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Stub axles.
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Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:58 pm
by Mal
Brad, are you painting all those parts with POR15 ?. It's good paint for all those parts.

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 8:07 pm
by Brad1380
Mal,
no point they are now rust free & i don't see the point of carrying around rust in your car.

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:12 pm
by martin172
Brad1380 wrote:Mal,
no point they are now rust free & i don't see the point of carrying around rust in your car.
I'm confused. Rust around in the car?

Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 6:44 am
by Mal
Brad1380 wrote:Mal,
no point they are now rust free & i don't see the point of carrying around rust in your car.
The paint itself is much more durable than enamel and you don't have to paint it on a surface which still has rust on it. A sandblasted surface is just as good, or you can use their metal ready to condition the surface.