Starter wiring

[Mal]

My new high tourqe mini starter seems to be an additional soleniod on it. Like a GM stater.

I have the remote soleniod wired as it should be and the starter wired with it's main power feed. I think I need to run the wire from the ign switch to the solenoid on the starter to get it to turn over.
Am I correct ? and would I bypass the remote soleniod with this wire.

Here you can see the small additional terminal on the stater.


The wiring on the remote. The ign wire is the one coming in form thr top of the photo, push on terminal.



Any help appreciated.

Cheers Mal

[Tom_HRO260]

Hi Mal

This should solve your query:

12V battery + to one side of remote solenoid
Starter cable from other side of remote solenoid to starter post
Ign to either of the small terminals on the remote solenoid
You need to make up a small jumper (12 gauge will do it) from the main starter post to the small (ign) post on the starter solenoid

This way, you can use the remote solenoid incoming 12V +'ve as a junction for other accessories as needed, and the starter itself only receives 12V "hot" when the ign is activated as opposed to 12V hot constant.

Hopefully the attached images might make sense.

Cheers, Tom

[Mal]

Thanks Tom, great reply with the images and arrows.
All I needed to do was the little jumper wire. I now have power to the starter.

Next problem is the starter is not engaging with the ring gear. Just making that horrible noise when a starter isn't engaging the ring gear .
I will crawl back under and make sure I have it bolted back up properly.

[Tom_HRO260]

Hi Mal - got sick of grinding and scraping the car so have gone and taken a few extra shots instead! I have to say this engine stand is a blessing...

It does sound as though the starter hasn't mated up far enough. I had to drill out the locating holes on my QT housing to take my starter (Powermaster) as the bolt spacings wer a few thou off - just enough to stop it mating fully. Powermaster recommend a 1/16" gap (shimmed as necessary) between ring gear and pinion. After a few mods, it all meshed first time.

Another image that may help.

Cheers, Tom

[redbaron]

Hi Mal,the solenoid in your picture is not an original Ford solenoid as used on a Tiger,rather a copy of the Lucas type.
To wire your new pre engaged starter,take the HEAVY lead to the starter from the solenoid Battery post,the one that has the battery lead fastened to it.
Then have a lead to the solenoid on the starter taken from the other post on the bulkhead mounted solenoid.
The two smaller post on an original solenoid are marked "S" and "I",which are starter,white/red wire from ignition swich, white/blue ignition bypass to give full 12v at coil side of ballast for starting.
They are not connected and thus wiring them wrongly will not make solenoid work. "I" post only operative whilst solenoid engaged during starting.
Regards David

[Mal]

Thanks again Tom. I am going to need some shims and work by trial and error. I didn't get any set up instructions with the starter. Hopefully the shims are easily obtainable.

Thanks David. The auto electricain I use said there were two ways of doing it. These two descripsions must be them. I will have him back here to check what I have done is the best way. There are a few things for him to do and to check over what I have done as well.

Cheers Mal.

[bigbob]

I use the hi torque starter & used a jumper wire to bypass the new solenoid on the starter. Kept the original solenoid working as usual. My mistake was not making sure the jumper terminals were tight, so it came loose a few months later & car needed push starts as it was impossible to reach it & reconnect on the roadside. Are you sure you have the correct starter to suit number of teeth on flywheel ring gear?

[Mal]

I use the hi torque starter & used a jumper wire to bypass the new solenoid on the starter. Kept the original solenoid working as usual. My mistake was not making sure the jumper terminals were tight, so it came loose a few months later & car needed push starts as it was impossible to reach it & reconnect on the roadside. Are you sure you have the correct starter to suit number of teeth on flywheel ring gear?

Bob,
That would not be a lot of fun trying to tighten the terminals road side. I can get at the large terminal from under the car but need to drop the starter to get to the small.
They told me the number of teeth on the fly wheel didn't matter. Just needed to no if it was manual or auto.
I have sent them an email to see if they can help.
Cheers Mal.

[Tom_HRO260]

Are you sure you have the correct starter to suit number of teeth on flywheel ring gear?

They told me the number of teeth on the fly wheel didn't matter. Just needed to no if it was manual or auto.

Hi Mal
Bob's question is valid (and I should have thought of that as well). Here's a snap of how to measure up - to be ambiguous, note how both PNs listed (in Powermaster's case anyway) are Manual Transmission. Hope this helps.

Tom

[Mal]

Hi Mal - got sick of grinding and scraping the car so have gone and taken a few extra shots instead! I have to say this engine stand is a blessing...

It does sound as though the starter hasn't mated up far enough. I had to drill out the locating holes on my QT housing to take my starter (Powermaster) as the bolt spacings wer a few thou off - just enough to stop it mating fully. Powermaster recommend a 1/16" gap (shimmed as necessary) between ring gear and pinion. After a few mods, it all meshed first time.

Another image that may help.

Cheers, Tom

Tom, i am not exactly clear what you mean by drilling out the locating holes on the bell housing. My starter just locates by the bolts that hold it and the hole in the engine plate. Also are you using special bolts that fit the bolt holes perfectly on the starter. The bolts I have been using are threaded all the way to the head. Hole in the engine plate is 104mm, flange on the starter is 103.32.

I have been in contact with the company I bought it from. He wants the measurement from the mounting face to the face of the flywheel, which is 18.5mm. I am preety sure it is a 164 tooth flywheel. 1992 5.0l ho block.
He also wants me to paint the pinion and use it a few times to check the contact pattern. They can adjust the starter from here.

Cheers

[Tom_HRO260]

Hi Mal

On my Quicktime the starter mounting points (circled below) were a threaded insert, however the spacing, either on the housing or on the starter mounting face, was mismatched and as such my starter wouldn't mate to the housing. To resolve, I had to drill out the inserts and resize.

I couldn't re-tap the housing with the insert gone, so I have used longer ARP bolts instead. The bolts are shouldered (rather than threaded to the head) and locate the starter nicely. I will finish off properly with lock nuts/wire once I mount the bellhousing/starter nose cone. By the way, I thought I had ordered the correct starter first time around, but stuffed up. I am using a 157T flywheel. I have a brand new 164T M/T hi torque mini starter should you run into strife!

The hi tech marks are to allow me to index the starter - I have to rotate the starter body to mount up to the housing, then rotate it to move the solenoid away from the headers. The starter allows quite a lot of rotation.

Hope this helps, Cheers Tom

[Mal]

Hi Mal

On my Quicktime the starter mounting points (circled below) were a threaded insert, however the spacing, either on the housing or on the starter mounting face, was mismatched and as such my starter wouldn't mate to the housing. To resolve, I had to drill out the inserts and resize.

I couldn't re-tap the housing with the insert gone, so I have used longer ARP bolts instead. The bolts are shouldered (rather than threaded to the head) and locate the starter nicely. I will finish off properly with lock nuts/wire once I mount the bellhousing/starter nose cone. By the way, I thought I had ordered the correct starter first time around, but stuffed up. I am using a 157T flywheel. I have a brand new 164T M/T hi torque mini starter should you run into strife!

The hi tech marks are to allow me to index the starter - I have to rotate the starter body to mount up to the housing, then rotate it to move the solenoid away from the headers. The starter allows quite a lot of rotation.

Hope this helps, Cheers Tom

Tom,

I have been under the car counting teeth (157). I managed to fit the original starter and the bolt spacing is off, like yours. I got the starter sitting flush with the engine plate and did up the top bolt but couldn't get the bottom one in. Tried it like that and it turned over fine.

Tried the new starter in, did the same procedure, no luck, not meshing properly. I can get both bolts in though. With the top bolt in tight there is a little binding on the bottom bolt but it will go.
Painted the pinion white so they can see what is happening.

Cheers Mal

[Mal]

I got the starter back today, bolted it in, turned it over
one step closer

[Tom_HRO260]

Hi Mal
Glad to hear it all mounts up and cranks over. Did they have to re-locate the pinion higher on shaft based on your paint/mesh?

[Mal]

Tom,

I think so, but I didn't measure it. It did look to protrude more when I got it back. I will pull it back out and measure it to see.