Holley running rich
Another Instruction Booklet
Meadow
I have been tinkering with my Holley (465 CFM) which has a tendency to run a bit lean. Often running rich (or lean) is a symptom of an improper fuel (float) level. See the attached instruction booklet from the Holley website. These instructions are different than the ones previously posted and include making float adjustments to your carb.
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Tec ... -5rev5.pdf
Jim
I have been tinkering with my Holley (465 CFM) which has a tendency to run a bit lean. Often running rich (or lean) is a symptom of an improper fuel (float) level. See the attached instruction booklet from the Holley website. These instructions are different than the ones previously posted and include making float adjustments to your carb.
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Tec ... -5rev5.pdf
Jim
I see what you mean about the steering wheel but I find the originals and motalitas a bit on the skinny side.meadowhog wrote:Interior, but just about in now, ally rad and kenlowe to fit. I could do with a wood steering wheel-original (naff one to tart up, not paying £400!! Ive the horn ring) or Motolita cos the tichy one its got reminds me of when I was 16 and had stronger wrists. I want black and ally number plate, fold the rear arches and drop it down abit at the back. Chrome strip down the side with a bit missing for the arches. Believe it or not a drivers side seat bottom cos its got two passanger seats-I didnt spot that one. Trans tunnel been patched up almost ready for MOT.
Its not perfect but to make it how I would really like it Id be better off getting something that really needs work and doing every nut a bolt. Thats mega money-I wonder what Mals car's cost him?
Almost £15K but I got the spares too, just sold the NOS wing. Previous owner didnt want to sell but got desperate as he had to move to far east in 3 weeks. He even threw in a set of ski's and other bits all destined for the skip!
Going to try Reel Steel first.
It would be nice to have the best of both.
I look forward to seeing it when it's completed. It will look really good.
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I was thinking of fitting them to the front instead of wheels. It might corner better.
Primary side rebuilt with new gaskets needle valve, power valve etc. Float chamber to do still, thanks vacat but checked the oil and it stinks of fuel and is real thin. Thanks Jim for that little tip-If your poer valve has gone theres a good chance fuel is getting past the rings, removing lubrication from the bores and thinning out the oil. Its about 1" over the full mark but still getting 70psi. Lucky its only been sat on a drive warming up so no load. I guess that would also explain why the fuel pump constantly ran. Time to change the oil as well, but might just leave the filter.
Primary side rebuilt with new gaskets needle valve, power valve etc. Float chamber to do still, thanks vacat but checked the oil and it stinks of fuel and is real thin. Thanks Jim for that little tip-If your poer valve has gone theres a good chance fuel is getting past the rings, removing lubrication from the bores and thinning out the oil. Its about 1" over the full mark but still getting 70psi. Lucky its only been sat on a drive warming up so no load. I guess that would also explain why the fuel pump constantly ran. Time to change the oil as well, but might just leave the filter.
Just an update on getting the monster back on the road after 11 years.
Black smoke went but blue smoke arrived out of one exhust when warmed up. Panic sets in. Checked plugs, all oiled up, poo.
Compression test OK. Black smoke, lots of black smoke comes back. Fuel pouring into secodaries. Rebuild secondaries. Black smoke gone. Blue smoke still there but not so bad.
10K on rebuilt engine but thoughts are, too much oil, stuck rings, broken ring, scored or won bore. Assume top end is OK as no smoke on start up and pistons good as theyre forged.
Oil level checked when changing oil. Think its OK but found 3 different dip sticks with the car and its got an oil cooler so only making best guess. No pressure from crank case so rings/bores maybe OK. Havent got the kit for a drop down test so that leaves taking it for a drive, to shake up the rings, under load, if theyre stuck.
Hey presto, within 10 yards smoke stops! Carried on round the block and found only 2 things. Sometimes difficult to find a gear when stopped and god its a quick liitle high compression high revving 302, it makes the gearbox look a bit silly.
Black smoke went but blue smoke arrived out of one exhust when warmed up. Panic sets in. Checked plugs, all oiled up, poo.
Compression test OK. Black smoke, lots of black smoke comes back. Fuel pouring into secodaries. Rebuild secondaries. Black smoke gone. Blue smoke still there but not so bad.
10K on rebuilt engine but thoughts are, too much oil, stuck rings, broken ring, scored or won bore. Assume top end is OK as no smoke on start up and pistons good as theyre forged.
Oil level checked when changing oil. Think its OK but found 3 different dip sticks with the car and its got an oil cooler so only making best guess. No pressure from crank case so rings/bores maybe OK. Havent got the kit for a drop down test so that leaves taking it for a drive, to shake up the rings, under load, if theyre stuck.
Hey presto, within 10 yards smoke stops! Carried on round the block and found only 2 things. Sometimes difficult to find a gear when stopped and god its a quick liitle high compression high revving 302, it makes the gearbox look a bit silly.
So Ive done a few miles now. Down the motorways and gunning it, it runs fine. Starting from cold and its fine but after its warmed and at idle it runs very rich, so rich it makes your eyes water and black smoke comes out of exhaust.
Its been suggested that lowering the floats by 1/8 of a turn could help. It could well be that due to the heat under the bonnet after a run, the floats run high and hence it runs rich. Ive got a tubular exhaust manifold so theres prob more heat than some Tigers.
Im going tyo give it a go but is there anything else that could be causing the issue?
Its been suggested that lowering the floats by 1/8 of a turn could help. It could well be that due to the heat under the bonnet after a run, the floats run high and hence it runs rich. Ive got a tubular exhaust manifold so theres prob more heat than some Tigers.
Im going tyo give it a go but is there anything else that could be causing the issue?
Everything okay wrt any choke you have? If its an automatic one, perhaps it is not going all the way off after warmup?meadowhog wrote:So Ive done a few miles now. Down the motorways and gunning it, it runs fine. Starting from cold and its fine but after its warmed and at idle it runs very rich, so rich it makes your eyes water and black smoke comes out of exhaust.
I see you mentioned rebuilding the secondaries. As I understand it, Holleys are built to flow a little gas even when not activated so as to keep fresh fuel in the bowl. Perhaps something is still amiss there?
Just some thoughts from afar. Hope you are able to get it sorted soon. You have had a long wait to be able to enjoy your car again.
Gene
Update:
Found the four bolts holding carb down were loose-unexpected but an air leak none the less. Transition slot way too exposed because of it.
Set up transition slot to be square and refitted. Set idle screws to 1.5 turns. Started engine and set secondaries to get an idle. Probably more than half turn from closed.
Reset floats, not sure why as were good. Primary chamber way down on correct level but not before. Not sure why but detonation started before adjustments so suspected weak fuel or too advanced. 17deg looks about right but could go higher and idle prob 900-1000rpm bbut not sure as rev counter not working.
Idle screws now doing what they supposed to do.
Last thing to do is rig up vac guage to fine tune. All looking good and running like a train.
One question, lots of forums Ive seen you need to set up transition slot to be square and secondaries to half turn of srcew from closed but; if the transition slot should be square at idle why should anyone adjust curb idle speed after transition slot setting is good.
Found the four bolts holding carb down were loose-unexpected but an air leak none the less. Transition slot way too exposed because of it.
Set up transition slot to be square and refitted. Set idle screws to 1.5 turns. Started engine and set secondaries to get an idle. Probably more than half turn from closed.
Reset floats, not sure why as were good. Primary chamber way down on correct level but not before. Not sure why but detonation started before adjustments so suspected weak fuel or too advanced. 17deg looks about right but could go higher and idle prob 900-1000rpm bbut not sure as rev counter not working.
Idle screws now doing what they supposed to do.
Last thing to do is rig up vac guage to fine tune. All looking good and running like a train.
One question, lots of forums Ive seen you need to set up transition slot to be square and secondaries to half turn of srcew from closed but; if the transition slot should be square at idle why should anyone adjust curb idle speed after transition slot setting is good.