A Few Questions

Mal · Post by **Mal** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 8:51 am

The first house I bought had no garage. Just a claped out old shed in the back yard. I built a new shed, and built a sailing dingy in it, with not much more space than being able to walk around the hull.
When we sold that, the secound house had a double garage. Still not enough space.
Now

. Those garage doors face north. In winter on a sunny day the sun just pours in there. Sometimes it gets that warm I have to take my shirt off

. BUT, I still could do with more storage space. Some people are never happy

V8 burble · Post by **V8 burble** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:16 am

Mal,

Stop gloating!!

By the way, is that a 2 or 3 seater settee you have there?

martin172 · Post by **martin172** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:48 am

Well, if the front suspension has to come off, I may be stuffed.

I can't think of a way of doing it unless I remove the suspension, drop and remove the engine, and then put the suspension back on again.

How long does it take to remove and refit the suspension?

martin172 · Post by **martin172** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:49 am

I've decided that I'm glad that I don't have a garage like Mal's.

As there is enough room for a sofa, toaster and kettle and tv, I'd end up living in there.

Then again.....

Mal · Post by **Mal** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:15 am

By the way, is that a 2 or 3 seater settee you have there?

Thats a three seater. Foot stools underneath

I promise to stop now.

Well, if the front suspension has to come off, I may be stuffed.

I can't think of a way of doing it unless I remove the suspension, drop and remove the engine, and then put the suspension back on again.

How long does it take to remove and refit the suspension?

A good opportunity to replace the front suspension bushes and make sure there are no cracks in the cross member. I pulled the front springs out before removing the cross member because you have the wieght of the car to make it easier. If you do decide to break it down, remember that the springs can be dangerous to remove. Make sure you have them tied in there so they can't fly out. Once broken down you will be able to store the parts under the bed.

bigbob · Post by **bigbob** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:46 am

I have now taken engine & box out many times single handed in my lean-to. Just using 2 trolley jacks. Found that hoist just got in the way. Gravity is on your side!

V8 burble · Post by **V8 burble** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 11:17 am

bigbob,

I take your point about using 2 trolley jacks.

For the less savvy and more safety conscious amongst us, I would still advise using either an engine crane or a block and tackle, since sometimes gravity is not on your side.
It is on other parts of your fragile anatomy, especially 600 lbs worth!

I have also used the B & T route with 2 acrow props braced floor to ceiling and a very sturdy horizontal bar.
Another B & T variation, if there is enough room, is to set up a tripod.

martin172 · Post by **martin172** » Wed Jun 29, 2011 1:00 pm

Next question.

The hoses connecting the fuel tanks and all the pipes are a bit tired and starting to crack.
These things...

What do people usually use to replace these?
Thanks.

gtsmrt · Post by **gtsmrt** » Thu Jun 30, 2011 12:59 am

Hi Martin,

You probably will not find that size hose at a normal automotive store. Have you tried the Sunbeam specialists? Just make sure the hose is fuel rated obviously.

Regards, Robin.

martin172 · Post by **martin172** » Mon Jul 04, 2011 3:19 pm

Hose probs now solved. Brian to the rescue.

Next thing...

I had my tanks out and so gave them a bit of a tidy and paint.

I think they look pretty good and the potatoes are doing well too.
Lisa has gone green mad. I feel like Tom and Barbara some days.

Anyway, this is the drain that was in the tank..

Is this the correct item because inspite of cleaning the threads in the hole and on it, it only seems to go in a few threads and I'm reluctant to give it a good tighten incase it is wrong and I bugger up the threads in the tank.

Does anyone know what thread it is and if it is right, should I be sealing it with anything?

Thanks!

gtsmrt · Post by **gtsmrt** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 7:49 am

Hi Martin,

The tanks look great. Did you check the inside of the tank as well? Over the years the sealer tends to flake off and can clog the fuel system. I'm not sure whether it is the camera angle, but the bung looks like it is a tapered thread. That may be why the bung does not go all the way into the hole.

Regards, Robin.

martin172 · Post by **martin172** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 8:58 am

JUst checked. It is indeed a tapered thread. 1 Gold star for Robin.

Anyone any idea what to seal it with?

The inside of the tanks are in pretty good condition tbh.
The slightest bit of rust here and there and that's about it. I gave them a good blast out with an air line.

Mal · Post by **Mal** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:02 am

Martin.
I painted the outside of my tanks with POR15 chassis black as it looks as though you have. I wanted to seal the inside of them as well so I bought the POR15 fuel tank sealer. It consists of a strong detergent which cleans of any fuel varnish on the surface of the tank. After that they looked really good so I progressed to the metal ready. Poured it in and left it for the required time. Thats when I learnt of the factory sealer. The metal ready removed half the factory sealer but not all.
Long story short I had to take them in and have them dipped in caustic to remove the rest, which removed all the new paint on the outside.
So if the rust is very minor, I think you are better off just blowing out the tanks and having a good fuel filter.
My tanks didn't have a drain bung so I can't help you there.

martin172 · Post by **martin172** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:44 am

Mal wrote:Martin.
I painted the outside of my tanks with POR15 chassis black as it looks as though you have. I wanted to seal the inside of them as well so I bought the POR15 fuel tank sealer. It consists of a strong detergent which cleans of any fuel varnish on the surface of the tank. After that they looked really good so I progressed to the metal ready. Poured it in and left it for the required time. Thats when I learnt of the factory sealer. The metal ready removed half the factory sealer but not all.
Long story short I had to take them in and have them dipped in caustic to remove the rest, which removed all the new paint on the outside.
So if the rust is very minor, I think you are better off just blowing out the tanks and having a good fuel filter.
My tanks didn't have a drain bung so I can't help you there.

That must have been a PITA.

Every day is a school day with Tigers I have found.

What I did with mine was to remove the old paint, treated them with Metal Ready to give them a zinc phosphate coating, then sprayed them with red oxide and then satin black paint to get the factory finish or close to it anyway.

Personally, I can't see the point of the drain plug anyway as it looks like that when in service you can't get at it.

gtsmrt · Post by **gtsmrt** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 12:37 pm

martin172 wrote:JUst checked. It is indeed a tapered thread. 1 Gold star for Robin.

Anyone any idea what to seal it with?

The inside of the tanks are in pretty good condition tbh.
The slightest bit of rust here and there and that's about it. I gave them a good blast out with an air line.

That's good, I would hate for you to take them out again after spending the time cleaning them up. Don't quote me on this, but I believe teflon tape is ok for fuel.