Stiff/Notchy Steering
Stiff/Notchy Steering
The steering on my Tiger becomes stiff and slightly notchy after an hour or so of driving, however it's fine at the beginning of the journey. I assume the problem is heat related.
I have changed the universal joints in the steering column, as well as the track rod ends and upper ball joints. The rack is well lubricated with EP gear oil.
Any ideas what the problem is? I was sure changing the steering column U/Js would cure it!
I have changed the universal joints in the steering column, as well as the track rod ends and upper ball joints. The rack is well lubricated with EP gear oil.
Any ideas what the problem is? I was sure changing the steering column U/Js would cure it!
Stiff/Notchy Steering
Hi Tim,
you may find that the ball bearings in the steering colunm are worn and dry of lubricant.
As the engine gets warm and radiates heat into the engine bay the column will warm up and the bearings could become dry.
Perhaps you can disconect the shaft from the column whilst still warm and test.
Keep us posted on your progress.
you may find that the ball bearings in the steering colunm are worn and dry of lubricant.
As the engine gets warm and radiates heat into the engine bay the column will warm up and the bearings could become dry.
Perhaps you can disconect the shaft from the column whilst still warm and test.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Stiff/Notchy Steering
Tim,
yes it would be a removal of the column,and then a strip out of the bearing to clean and inspect,you may be able to buy new ball bearings if the races are still good and not pitted or grooved.
Then repack with grease and refit.
David
yes it would be a removal of the column,and then a strip out of the bearing to clean and inspect,you may be able to buy new ball bearings if the races are still good and not pitted or grooved.
Then repack with grease and refit.
David
Been 25 years since I pulled the steering column apart so I had forgotten exactly what the bearing setup looked like.
These bearings essentially do very little real work and are not a precision fit, they mostly take care of centralizing the steering shaft and the end thrust. The factory originals look a bit cheap and cheerful.
The remake guy in Texas had sold the last of his just a few days prior so I did the best with what I had and what I could get. I used the best inner and outer cup/balls [21] at the engine bay end and bought a standard 25x37x7 bearing for the top end.
The 2 things needed here was to either take the shaft down from 25.4 to 25mm or take the bearing out to the 25.4 [1"] As the engineering outfit had a wiring machine we wired out the metal of the brg to fit the shaft as this leaves it standard size.
The other thing is the depth of the new 7mm bearing being about 2mm greater than the original cup/ball setup. We put the new brg in the old outer cup as this has a flange that sets the depth it can go down the outer column and cut some shim stock to pack out the slight difference in OD.
The final act was to remove enough of the packing washers to allow the cir-clip to click into place. I tried to use the new bearings in both ends and found the springs would coil bind and could not get the cir-clips at both ends in so went with the best of the old bits and 1 new bearing.
These bearings essentially do very little real work and are not a precision fit, they mostly take care of centralizing the steering shaft and the end thrust. The factory originals look a bit cheap and cheerful.
The remake guy in Texas had sold the last of his just a few days prior so I did the best with what I had and what I could get. I used the best inner and outer cup/balls [21] at the engine bay end and bought a standard 25x37x7 bearing for the top end.
The 2 things needed here was to either take the shaft down from 25.4 to 25mm or take the bearing out to the 25.4 [1"] As the engineering outfit had a wiring machine we wired out the metal of the brg to fit the shaft as this leaves it standard size.
The other thing is the depth of the new 7mm bearing being about 2mm greater than the original cup/ball setup. We put the new brg in the old outer cup as this has a flange that sets the depth it can go down the outer column and cut some shim stock to pack out the slight difference in OD.
The final act was to remove enough of the packing washers to allow the cir-clip to click into place. I tried to use the new bearings in both ends and found the springs would coil bind and could not get the cir-clips at both ends in so went with the best of the old bits and 1 new bearing.
Apart from scouring marks on the inner cups and old dried out grease my big problem was the steering shaft was not straight. As the shaft is cut and welded in 2 places there is plenty of room for a Monday unit to be a bit rough, mine certainly was. The joining and welding of the splined engine bay end was not great and contributed to run-out that probably roughed up the bearing cup. We managed to get it about 75% better but not perfect.
Just the lower shaft universals to do and all should be ok to go along with the new rack being one of the re-makes.
It probably rates a mention here that I bought a new MG Midget rack a few years ago from UK dealer and should warn others of my experiences after less than 1000 miles. It developed a lot of play at the non-pinion end, obviously poor machining of the bush at the LH end and also the makers in Argentina did not faithfully copy the original 1960's unit. They left out the LH end piston/spring assembly which stops the rack from walking or chattering. A bit disappointing all round.
Just the lower shaft universals to do and all should be ok to go along with the new rack being one of the re-makes.
It probably rates a mention here that I bought a new MG Midget rack a few years ago from UK dealer and should warn others of my experiences after less than 1000 miles. It developed a lot of play at the non-pinion end, obviously poor machining of the bush at the LH end and also the makers in Argentina did not faithfully copy the original 1960's unit. They left out the LH end piston/spring assembly which stops the rack from walking or chattering. A bit disappointing all round.
.... thanks for that feedback - best get mine checked over by a 'specialist' who knows what they are looking at!Russtee wrote:a new MG Midget rack.....developed a lot of play at the non-pinion end, obviously poor machining of the bush at the LH end and also the makers in Argentina did not faithfully copy the original 1960's unit. They left out the LH end piston/spring assembly which stops the rack from walking or chattering. A bit disappointing all round.
Not good at all that!
The Welsh MG centre have one.Tomaselli wrote:Indeed, and if you find a LHD one - put my name on it.
http://www.welshmg.co.uk/wordpress/?page_id=185
1966 Sunbeam Tiger Mk1