A Few Questions

Post any Tech Tips or any matters and questions relating to upkeep
martin172
Posts: 1022
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:14 pm

Post by martin172 » Fri Jul 08, 2011 1:27 pm

I'm going to seal the drain plug with Loctite 243.
That what Loctite recommended I use.

martin172
Posts: 1022
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:14 pm

Post by martin172 » Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:39 pm

Ok guys, next question.

I took the rubber seal off that sits between the bodwork and the bottom rear of the soft top ( the one that is about 6 1/2 feet long )
as it didn't seem to be fixed on very well.
When I got it off, I found that it had been stuck on with Evostik or similar and didn't look like it would seal very well.

What should this be sealed/held on with?
Seam sealant perhaps?

Cheers.

martin172
Posts: 1022
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:14 pm

Post by martin172 » Wed Aug 10, 2011 1:13 pm

Problem solved courtesy of Mr Herning once again.
Thanks Dave. :D

Tomaselli
Posts: 942
Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2005 2:03 pm
Location: Cheshire, North West England

Post by Tomaselli » Wed Aug 10, 2011 5:00 pm

martin172 wrote:Problem solved courtesy of Mr Herning
Nice one Dave, you are certainly a "font of knowledge" around Tigers - but let's share it 8)

martin172
Posts: 1022
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:14 pm

Post by martin172 » Thu Aug 25, 2011 6:36 pm

Next question for you guys.

When I get time, I intend to remove the engine and put it onto an engine stand so I can give it a once over, clean it and perhaps paint it but I'm not sure where and how to fit it.

So, the question is, how do I fit a 260 engine onto an engine stand ( it is a Clarke CES 750 A btw )

Thanks.

V8 burble
Posts: 278
Joined: Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:13 am

Post by V8 burble » Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:15 pm

1) Find or purchase 4 off 7/16 UNC bolts of suitable length to fit the rear of the SBF block.
2) Secure engine stand's mounting bracket to block using above bolts.
3) Locate a couple of burly blokes, or bigbob on his own, to lift block and align mounting bracket with main body of engine stand.

Mal
Posts: 672
Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 5:39 am
Location: NZ

Post by Mal » Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:15 pm

Martin. Most engine stands are adjustable and the engine is bolted to it by the bell housing bolt holes. You will need longer bolts. Clutch will have to be removed, possibly the flywheel.

Cheers Mal

martin172
Posts: 1022
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:14 pm

Post by martin172 » Thu Aug 25, 2011 10:24 pm

Hi G, hi Mal.

Thanks for the info guys.
I've got my hands on a 2nd hand crane too, so I don't need to phone Bob. :D

Thanks.

martin172
Posts: 1022
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:14 pm

Post by martin172 » Fri Aug 26, 2011 10:27 am

I forgot to ask, how do I attach the slings to lower the engine out of the car?

martin172
Posts: 1022
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:14 pm

Post by martin172 » Wed May 01, 2013 12:12 am

Ok, another question.

There have been a few threads about front springs and ratings etc.

I know that you can get standard springs and heavy duty springs but what other ratings are available?

Ive had a look at all the info I can find and it seems as clear as mud.

All I know is that people think that standards are too soft and H/Ds will make your kidneys bleed.

martin172
Posts: 1022
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:14 pm

Post by martin172 » Wed May 01, 2013 11:51 am

Also, do people fit the insulators at the top of the springs.

My car didn't have any fitted and I've been led to believe that people don't use them.

Are they available anywhere?

Mal
Posts: 672
Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 5:39 am
Location: NZ

Post by Mal » Wed May 01, 2013 7:59 pm

I fitted new insulators to my car. Cut them down 50 percent so they were thinner. Should be able to get them through one of the UK parts people.
Image

martin172
Posts: 1022
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:14 pm

Post by martin172 » Thu May 02, 2013 8:06 am

Thanks Mal.

Nice to know they are out there.

martin172
Posts: 1022
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:14 pm

Post by martin172 » Fri May 03, 2013 9:05 pm

Insulators ordered.

I've decided after seeking advice to run with the springs the car came with for now (well, when it finally gets on the road) and go from there.

Why did you cut your insulators down Mal?
Was it to lower the car a bit or for some other reason?

Mal
Posts: 672
Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 5:39 am
Location: NZ

Post by Mal » Fri May 03, 2013 10:05 pm

martin172 wrote:Insulators ordered.

I've decided after seeking advice to run with the springs the car came with for now (well, when it finally gets on the road) and go from there.

Why did you cut your insulators down Mal?
Was it to lower the car a bit or for some other reason?
Just to lower the front a bit. I have read that some don't use them, but I don't like that idea. I used the original springs as well. Could not see any point changing them to a stiffer spring rate for general road use.

Mal
Image

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