Brembo caliper's

Post any Tech Tips or any matters and questions relating to upkeep
Mal
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Post by Mal » Thu May 13, 2010 8:46 pm

bigbob. Since you are not running a servo, did you change your master cylinder?. The bore size will not be correct now the booster is gone.


SORRY I went back and had a look at your earlier post and see you have.
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Mal
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Post by Mal » Sat Apr 23, 2011 2:01 am

I have the Brembo calipers set up on the spindles now. We found that as well as machining 3mm off the hub we also had to shift the position of the caliper acoross a further 5mm, as a total of 8mm was required to centre the disc in the caliper.
This was achieved by machining two 5mm thick washers to fit between the caliper and the back of the spindle and fitting longer bolts. A third washer was machined to take up the gap between the back of the spindle and the steering arm (see pic) Assemble all parts to get the measurement for this washer, a longer bolt is required also.

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michael-king
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Post by michael-king » Sat Apr 23, 2011 8:39 am

Mal,

nice progrees on the brakes, Out of interest, have you kept tabs on the cost of making this setup? I'm interested in the comparison of doing the peugeot setup VS buying a kit like Dales. I have seen a few variations on the upgarded front setup over the years, and while i appreciate the enjoyment of making your own/doing your won thing I wonder if the actual price difference is that much in the end
Michael King
63 Alpine SII - 65 Alpine SIVGT
65 Tiger MKI - 66 Tiger MKIA
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Mal
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Location: NZ

Post by Mal » Fri May 06, 2011 7:04 am

Michael. I see Dales has a front kit for $950.00. With the strength of the aus $ it would be a good buy. I thought your car has upgraded brakes ?.
Also what if any duties do you have to pay ?.
Mal

gtsmrt
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Post by gtsmrt » Fri May 06, 2011 10:04 am

Mal wrote:Also what if any duties do you have to pay ?.
Mal
Hi Mal,

Not sure what the duty is worth in NZ, but here in Australia any new item over Au$1000 attracts import duty. I don't know if that is applicable to used items, but I assume it would. Import duty works out at approximately 15% of the total cost.

Hope this helps,

Regards, Robin.
Robin O'Dell
Tiger MK 1a
ENJOYING THE EXPERIENCE AS DAD WOULD HAVE

H, Sunny 65
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Post by H, Sunny 65 » Fri May 06, 2011 12:17 pm

Hi Mal

Sorry to put a dampner on what you have done, but i can see a small problem when it comes to tracking. Due to the size of spacer's you have used on the steering arm. As to re set the track you will find the track rod end, does not screw on to the track rod enough, as it will bottom out. I used much smaller spacer than you have and i am having this problem, my ends are on to there limit and my track is still towing out slightly to much.
Does any one know a cure for this, keeping original tiger rack?

Harry

bigbob
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Post by bigbob » Fri May 06, 2011 1:10 pm

Surely the answer is to trim a short amount off the thread of the rack ends.

martin172
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Post by martin172 » Fri May 06, 2011 1:15 pm

I thought that but him mentioning toeing out threw me a little.

bigbob
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Post by bigbob » Fri May 06, 2011 3:41 pm

As track rods are at the front, shortening the arms will increase toe-in, hopefully solving the problem. Or reduce thickness of spacer on steering arm front bolt until track rod end just clears disc. That worked for me.
Can't understand why Mal didn't machine 6-8mm off hub, instead of 3mm, to avoid spacers behind caliper.

martin172
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Post by martin172 » Fri May 06, 2011 3:56 pm

Ofcourse. I forgot the rack is on the "wrong" side.

sbt302
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brembo's

Post by sbt302 » Fri May 06, 2011 9:15 pm

Yep your right Bob.... that's why we've taken 7'ish mm of the back of the hubs so the trackrod end are further apart... 8)

Mal
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Location: NZ

Post by Mal » Fri May 06, 2011 10:40 pm

When they were setting up the calipers and realized they needed another 5mm off the hub as well as the 3mm which was originaly mentioned in previous posts to centre the caliper. They felt it was to much to take off the hub. That would only leave 2- 3mm at the narrow part of the hub where it meets the disc.
I suppose having the car apart we missed the problem with the rack and tie rod end adjustment :( .
Never mind once I get the front end back together I will see what we can do.

Mal

sbt302
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brembo's

Post by sbt302 » Sun May 08, 2011 6:44 pm

Hi Mal,

You can use a MG rack and shorten the ends.. that will work.. better than cutting the ends of the original rack.. 8)

michael-king
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Post by michael-king » Mon May 09, 2011 3:46 am

Mal wrote:Michael. I see Dales has a front kit for $950.00. With the strength of the aus $ it would be a good buy. I thought your car has upgraded brakes ?.
Also what if any duties do you have to pay ?.
Mal
Mal,

Yes, my car runs dales upgraded brakes and springs front and rear. I was more asking in regards to if you thought about going down the pre-purchase path given that the USD has been so weak lately.

Also, re: brakes, while there are a few good write-ups on how to do it with mazda and volvo brakes, the idea of buying a gaurenteed and tested setup with all brackets adaptors etc.. always apeals to me.

It's just get the box and start bolting on. I appreciate the enjoyment of doing your own thing and building stuff yourself.. but i find that always leaves me with a car off the road for a long time between starting and finshing :oops:
Michael King
63 Alpine SII - 65 Alpine SIVGT
65 Tiger MKI - 66 Tiger MKIA
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Mal
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Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 5:39 am
Location: NZ

Post by Mal » Tue May 10, 2011 7:11 am

Michael,

Buying a worked out set up is a good option. The $950US will probably work out to over $2000.00NZ by the time I got them.
It seemed that using the calipers of the 406 was an easy option as well. I just didn't realise about the alignment problem. My options seem to be
re-machine the hubs or an MG steering rack (which has other benifits). I am going to look into the possibility of casting new steering arms. Probably not cost efficent, but worth a look.

What model MG rack do you need :?:

Mal

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