Page 1 of 1

Stiff/Notchy Steering

Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 12:04 am
by Tim
The steering on my Tiger becomes stiff and slightly notchy after an hour or so of driving, however it's fine at the beginning of the journey. I assume the problem is heat related.

I have changed the universal joints in the steering column, as well as the track rod ends and upper ball joints. The rack is well lubricated with EP gear oil.

Any ideas what the problem is? I was sure changing the steering column U/Js would cure it!

Stiff/Notchy Steering

Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 9:44 am
by redbaron
Hi Tim,
you may find that the ball bearings in the steering colunm are worn and dry of lubricant.
As the engine gets warm and radiates heat into the engine bay the column will warm up and the bearings could become dry.
Perhaps you can disconect the shaft from the column whilst still warm and test.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 8:26 am
by Tim
Hi David,

Thanks for the advice, that does sound like a definite possibility. I assume that to lubricate those bearings it's a column out job?

Stiff/Notchy Steering

Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 9:24 am
by redbaron
Tim,
yes it would be a removal of the column,and then a strip out of the bearing to clean and inspect,you may be able to buy new ball bearings if the races are still good and not pitted or grooved.
Then repack with grease and refit.
David

Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 8:09 pm
by Russtee
I think I have the same problem of steering col getting stiff after an hour or so.
Anyone have any pointers as to the dis-assembly of the column, is it better to start from top or bottom?

Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 1:37 pm
by Brad1380
Plenty of penetrating oil if mine was anything to go by.

Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 3:31 am
by Russtee
Been 25 years since I pulled the steering column apart so I had forgotten exactly what the bearing setup looked like.

These bearings essentially do very little real work and are not a precision fit, they mostly take care of centralizing the steering shaft and the end thrust. The factory originals look a bit cheap and cheerful.

The remake guy in Texas had sold the last of his just a few days prior so I did the best with what I had and what I could get. I used the best inner and outer cup/balls [21] at the engine bay end and bought a standard 25x37x7 bearing for the top end.

The 2 things needed here was to either take the shaft down from 25.4 to 25mm or take the bearing out to the 25.4 [1"] As the engineering outfit had a wiring machine we wired out the metal of the brg to fit the shaft as this leaves it standard size.

The other thing is the depth of the new 7mm bearing being about 2mm greater than the original cup/ball setup. We put the new brg in the old outer cup as this has a flange that sets the depth it can go down the outer column and cut some shim stock to pack out the slight difference in OD.

The final act was to remove enough of the packing washers to allow the cir-clip to click into place. I tried to use the new bearings in both ends and found the springs would coil bind and could not get the cir-clips at both ends in so went with the best of the old bits and 1 new bearing.

Posted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 7:36 am
by Mal
Nice to see you got it sorted Russ. I like the way you solved the bearing issue. I bet it feels nice and smooth now.

Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 3:10 am
by Russtee
Apart from scouring marks on the inner cups and old dried out grease my big problem was the steering shaft was not straight. As the shaft is cut and welded in 2 places there is plenty of room for a Monday unit to be a bit rough, mine certainly was. The joining and welding of the splined engine bay end was not great and contributed to run-out that probably roughed up the bearing cup. We managed to get it about 75% better but not perfect.

Just the lower shaft universals to do and all should be ok to go along with the new rack being one of the re-makes.

It probably rates a mention here that I bought a new MG Midget rack a few years ago from UK dealer and should warn others of my experiences after less than 1000 miles. It developed a lot of play at the non-pinion end, obviously poor machining of the bush at the LH end and also the makers in Argentina did not faithfully copy the original 1960's unit. They left out the LH end piston/spring assembly which stops the rack from walking or chattering. A bit disappointing all round.

Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 3:19 pm
by Tomaselli
Russtee wrote:a new MG Midget rack.....developed a lot of play at the non-pinion end, obviously poor machining of the bush at the LH end and also the makers in Argentina did not faithfully copy the original 1960's unit. They left out the LH end piston/spring assembly which stops the rack from walking or chattering. A bit disappointing all round.
.... thanks for that feedback - best get mine checked over by a 'specialist' who knows what they are looking at!

Not good at all that!

Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 5:27 pm
by Brad1380
I've been told by Jim not to get a repro rack but a reconditioned original.

Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 8:54 pm
by Tomaselli
Indeed, and if you find a LHD one - put my name on it.

My MG rack made in 'Hungary' seems to be holding out ..... for now :D

Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2015 1:54 pm
by Brad1380
Tomaselli wrote:Indeed, and if you find a LHD one - put my name on it.
The Welsh MG centre have one.

http://www.welshmg.co.uk/wordpress/?page_id=185