Tiger Clutch

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Tiger Clutch

Post by Tigerfan » Sat Jun 06, 2015 12:52 pm

Hi Guys,

Having been a Motorcycle RTA in my youth I have a damaged left ankle. Although in the past this has not caused me too much trouble, I am now finding the pressure required to depress my Tiger clutch problamatic. I do not have a problem with either of my other classics, MGA TC and Triumph TR6.
I don't know what clutch is fitted to my car as the engine and gearbox had been rebuilt before I bought the car, but it would have been about 12 years ago.
My question is whether there are different clutches available for the Tiger which would maybe be lighter, although changing the clutch unless certain that a solution would be avhieved, would not be a w/e job.
Perhaps establishing what the actual pressure is needed to depress the clutch should be done first, any ideas how to do this?
Alternatively, would it be possible to change the master cylinder/slave cylinder ratio to lighten the pressure. Or perhaps as I now Landrover Defender owners do is fit a remote MGB Servo to the clutch which seems to work well.
But where to fit for a Tiger. No room under the bonnet that's for sure. What about possibly resiting the fuel pump and placing in the Alpine battery well?
Any views would be appreciated.


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Post by jerryg » Sat Jun 06, 2015 10:24 pm

Have just had a clutch fitted to my Tiger, replacing the McCloud clutch that was on there before. I went for a LUK clutch as that appears to be what many suppliers now have (Real Steel, Sunbeam Spares) and on investigation, was told that they were of sufficient quality and at a decent price I felt, for a full kit that included 7 different spigot bushes and alignment tool, so guaranteed a bush to suit.
Being a diaphragm clutch it is much lighter to use , so might suit your needs. The only concern I have is that the release bearing was silent at the start of my 45 mile journey from collecting the car to home, but was audible on arrival at my home. Maybe the trade-off in buying a "budget" clutch is in the quality of the release bearing? Time will tell no doubt. A planned run tomorrow might enlighten me further.
I live in Bristol and you are welcome to drive my car if it will assist your decision making.

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Post by pushrod » Tue Jun 09, 2015 10:28 pm

I fitted a diaphragm clutch last year when I overhauled my engine. The clutch I had was a Sachs unit from Real Steel. The pedal pressure is slightly lighter but not a great deal. I changed the flywheel as well.

So far it's done nearly 7000 miles including last years Monte Tour and the Stelvio on the way back.

65 Mk1 Tiger 260
66 Mk1 Tiger 260 (African Violet)
63 Ford Falcon Sprint
63 Ford Falcon Monte Carlo Rally replica
02 Honda Valkyrie

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Post by Tigerfan » Fri Jun 12, 2015 7:52 am

Thats interesting. Spoke with Real Steal who seem to think the new Diaphram clutches available for the past 5 years or so are considerably lighter that the original Ford spring clutch. Problem is I'm not sure what has been fitted to my car. The engine was rebuilt proffessionally about 12 years ago and assembled to the gearbox and came with the car which was in bits, so probably wasn't a diaphram clutch but how to tell? The engine wasn't run until 2012.

I could fit a new diaphram clutch anyway, but I'm assuming the only way to do this is complete engine out, not a five minute job. Or is there another way?

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Tiger Clutch

Post by redbaron » Fri Jun 12, 2015 9:03 am

Hi Rich,
as has been stated the diaphragm clutch cover will be lighter in operation than the original coil spring type.
You can tell what you have in the car now by removing the starter motor and looking into the bell housing with a small mirror and light,angled just right, and you can see the clutch cover which will be higher for a coil spring than a diaphragm.

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Post by bigbob » Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:41 am

I've fitted my brake servo under the rear seat with no problems. Relocated fuel pump to spare wheel well. Made a box similar to Alpine battery box & put servo inside. Might be easier for you to fit extra servo than having to take engine out to replace clutch, which may/may not improve matters. If you do have clutch out, I've changed the arm to a later type which pivots off a ball joint on other side of bell housing. Much improved leverage ratio which reduces pedal pressure considerably.

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Post by ksherlock » Tue Jun 16, 2015 4:50 pm

Because the diaphragm type clutch is of a lower height compared to the original centrifugal type I found that a longer pushrod was needed. I made this from a 5/16" x 4" UNF bolt and cut it to about an inch longer than the original pushrod.

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Post by Tigerfan » Fri Jun 26, 2015 4:38 pm

Thanks Guys for all your replys.
Going to see if I can establish which clutch is fitted by removing the starter motor as Red Barron has suggested. Depending on what I see I may change the clutch or fit a servo under the back seat as also suggested.
If replacing the clutch, has anybody written up removing the engine without gearbox as in a normal car manner, highlighting the difficulties. Seems to be very tight but I believe possible.
Again thanks for your help.

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