Door seals and channels
Door seals and channels
Xmas came early and box of goodies arrived from Rick at Sunbeam Specialities.
Main order was for the window rubber channels, and kit. Think I am going to busy fitting the window and door seals and channels.
Looks straightforward enough, I am sure.
Any tips or recommendations form anybody who has tackled the job. Would be good to know as I am useless when it comes to any diy on the Tiger
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Tony
Main order was for the window rubber channels, and kit. Think I am going to busy fitting the window and door seals and channels.
Looks straightforward enough, I am sure.
Any tips or recommendations form anybody who has tackled the job. Would be good to know as I am useless when it comes to any diy on the Tiger
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Tony
I am specifically looking for advice on the clips that are used on the upper door window channels, inner and outer. Any advice how best to secure the clips with my big fat fingers would be handy. Doesn't look like a lot of room to manoeuvre - perhaps there is a knack of fitting these clips to the door and weather seals.
I hear that the clips are normally referred to as 'bastard clips' I wonder why
I hear that the clips are normally referred to as 'bastard clips' I wonder why
Door channels and seals
Tony,
it does not matter if you have fat or thin fingers to do the job you will need a good set of needle nose pliers.And patience
First place a couple of strips of masking tape along the top of the door,to protect the finish in case you slip with the tools.
For the outer weather strip clips grasp the longer leg of the clip and feed into the gap betwween the door glass and door skin,aligning the two shorter legs with the slot in the skin,press down and get the legs to start on the panel.
Remove the pliers and gently tap the short legs to seat in the slot with an old flat bladed screwdriver.
To fit the inner clips,you may have to fashion a tool,we use a tool that holds the clip and allows it to be pulled up into position.
The clip needs to come upwards and fix with the two claws and leave the curled weather strip retainer to face the door glass,once again a cover for the glass is a good idea.
When fitting the outer weather strips,start by prising the longer leg out slighty to give you a chance to push the strip down,maybe go along each clip carefully as you ease down to seat the seal.
The inner seal will need some sort of helper to keep on the door panel as pushing the new draught excluder seal tends to dislodge the previously fitted clips.
it does not matter if you have fat or thin fingers to do the job you will need a good set of needle nose pliers.And patience
First place a couple of strips of masking tape along the top of the door,to protect the finish in case you slip with the tools.
For the outer weather strip clips grasp the longer leg of the clip and feed into the gap betwween the door glass and door skin,aligning the two shorter legs with the slot in the skin,press down and get the legs to start on the panel.
Remove the pliers and gently tap the short legs to seat in the slot with an old flat bladed screwdriver.
To fit the inner clips,you may have to fashion a tool,we use a tool that holds the clip and allows it to be pulled up into position.
The clip needs to come upwards and fix with the two claws and leave the curled weather strip retainer to face the door glass,once again a cover for the glass is a good idea.
When fitting the outer weather strips,start by prising the longer leg out slighty to give you a chance to push the strip down,maybe go along each clip carefully as you ease down to seat the seal.
The inner seal will need some sort of helper to keep on the door panel as pushing the new draught excluder seal tends to dislodge the previously fitted clips.
Had some free time today to dismantle the whole door assembly taking out window winder regulator, glass and all channels.
It was fun taking out all the channels and the regulator, started on my passenger side first as I knew the channels were in particularly poor shape. Hopefully refitting will be the reverse of extracting all the parts - though not looking forward to that
A few photos so I have a reference in the future how it all goes back together!
Somebody clearly used old seat webbing to make-do the quarterlight window channel. Thought it was about time to do the job after 16 years of ownership
Old and New channels. The repro items certainly are great quality component!
Only problem I had, was the front lower channel bracket proving a real bind to remove with both retaining screws sheering. Don't you just love working with rusty old parts that are 50 years old Even trying a soak with releasing oil didn't help
Dremel saved the day and careful removal and drilled out of offending items
Inside the door has the usual amount of surface rust one expects. You can see the the weather seal's missing clips. Probably been there years! Will waxoil and make good.
Rear lower channel bracket came out, but I could clearly see that the glass sat between the webbing and the metal of the channel bracket. So that will be replaced and repositioned.
When I get more time I will start to put everything back together with new fresh channels/seals. First I will take the door handles off and replace the barrels so that I have one key for the whole car - another job that's been on the 'list' Then tackle the other side. A useful Winter project....
It was fun taking out all the channels and the regulator, started on my passenger side first as I knew the channels were in particularly poor shape. Hopefully refitting will be the reverse of extracting all the parts - though not looking forward to that
A few photos so I have a reference in the future how it all goes back together!
Somebody clearly used old seat webbing to make-do the quarterlight window channel. Thought it was about time to do the job after 16 years of ownership
Old and New channels. The repro items certainly are great quality component!
Only problem I had, was the front lower channel bracket proving a real bind to remove with both retaining screws sheering. Don't you just love working with rusty old parts that are 50 years old Even trying a soak with releasing oil didn't help
Dremel saved the day and careful removal and drilled out of offending items
Inside the door has the usual amount of surface rust one expects. You can see the the weather seal's missing clips. Probably been there years! Will waxoil and make good.
Rear lower channel bracket came out, but I could clearly see that the glass sat between the webbing and the metal of the channel bracket. So that will be replaced and repositioned.
When I get more time I will start to put everything back together with new fresh channels/seals. First I will take the door handles off and replace the barrels so that I have one key for the whole car - another job that's been on the 'list' Then tackle the other side. A useful Winter project....
Door channels and seals
Tony,
useful photos there of the job you are doing,should help anyone else contemplating doing this to their car.
useful photos there of the job you are doing,should help anyone else contemplating doing this to their car.
Martin, those bolts are actually quite unique holding the bottom of the channel rail in place at the bottom of the door. I think they are 3/16th UNF and have a small taper on the end, presume to stop them from cross threading the retaining plate.
I am sure I'll need a set for the other side, so if anybody has some spare.....
David, I find in my old age now it's useful to take piccies as blow me if I can remember how it all fits when I eventually put it all back together again. A slow Winter's project me thinks. I also need to take out fuel tanks and get them sealed this Winter. Plenty to do before the 2105 season. need to get the car ready for the overseas trips
I am sure I'll need a set for the other side, so if anybody has some spare.....
David, I find in my old age now it's useful to take piccies as blow me if I can remember how it all fits when I eventually put it all back together again. A slow Winter's project me thinks. I also need to take out fuel tanks and get them sealed this Winter. Plenty to do before the 2105 season. need to get the car ready for the overseas trips
Had a couple of hours spare this afternoon, so I opened the garage door and carried on
Decided to take the door locks and handle off the door, so the whole door is now stripped bare. Never been happy with the door locks and the mismatch of keys, so I thought it would be an ideal time to 1) change the door handles and 2) match all the barrels to one key.
First I took the door lock mechanism off and just like the window winder regulators, they were bone dry of any grease.
So my question on this post please, does the lock mechanism shown above need to be greased or oiled with any special lubricant, if any. And, how best to apply the lube.
Having gone this far, I am changing the door handles. The O/S door has a genuine handle but the chrome is in pretty poor shape with somebody having been over-zealous with an orbital sander at some point Also, the N/S door (yet to do) is an aftermarket copy.
Also, I've never been happy with the door handle gaskets (lack of them) or paint over spray - so time to address;
In anticipation of one day carrying out this job, I had in waiting a full set of barrels and matching Rootes keys. Four barrels to do ignition, two doors and boot lock
Time to take apart the old door handle;
Carefully drilled the pilot hole for the new barrel so that the mechanism all lines up, had to be spot-on with the drill bit
Completed working lock with new barrel and brand new old stock door handle ready to fit
Decided to take the door locks and handle off the door, so the whole door is now stripped bare. Never been happy with the door locks and the mismatch of keys, so I thought it would be an ideal time to 1) change the door handles and 2) match all the barrels to one key.
First I took the door lock mechanism off and just like the window winder regulators, they were bone dry of any grease.
So my question on this post please, does the lock mechanism shown above need to be greased or oiled with any special lubricant, if any. And, how best to apply the lube.
Having gone this far, I am changing the door handles. The O/S door has a genuine handle but the chrome is in pretty poor shape with somebody having been over-zealous with an orbital sander at some point Also, the N/S door (yet to do) is an aftermarket copy.
Also, I've never been happy with the door handle gaskets (lack of them) or paint over spray - so time to address;
In anticipation of one day carrying out this job, I had in waiting a full set of barrels and matching Rootes keys. Four barrels to do ignition, two doors and boot lock
Time to take apart the old door handle;
Carefully drilled the pilot hole for the new barrel so that the mechanism all lines up, had to be spot-on with the drill bit
Completed working lock with new barrel and brand new old stock door handle ready to fit
Door channels and seals
Tony,
excellent work you are doing by recording with photos the job in hand.
As to the lubricating of the door lock,firstly I would degrease the lock to remove the old residue of hardened grease.
Then use a good quality spray grease,I use WURTH spray grease,which is quite tenacious and has good lasting properties.
You can direct it into the mechanism and then operate the lock to distribute the lubricant.
excellent work you are doing by recording with photos the job in hand.
As to the lubricating of the door lock,firstly I would degrease the lock to remove the old residue of hardened grease.
Then use a good quality spray grease,I use WURTH spray grease,which is quite tenacious and has good lasting properties.
You can direct it into the mechanism and then operate the lock to distribute the lubricant.