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Clunking sound when turning left
Posted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 8:50 pm
by tigerman7347
Any idea you guys on what is causing a clunking noise when turning left. I replaced the front springs late last year and seems to have happened since. Would appreciate any help .
Cheers Rob
Posted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 11:25 pm
by bigbob
It may be that after a few beers you are driving into the kerb. If not, have you checked that the steering rack mountings are tight?
Re Clunking noise.
Posted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 1:24 pm
by tigerman7347
Finally found what was causing Clunking noise. 1 bolt missing from lower fulcrum support, in fact all the bolts on both sides were loose! We were lucky not to have had an accident. Now scrounging around local garages for a new bolt.
Clunking noise
Posted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 3:22 pm
by tigerman7347
Bolt sheared off .Anybody had this happen?
Re: Clunking noise
Posted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 7:16 pm
by tigerman7347
tigerman7347 wrote:Bolt sheared off .Anybody had this happen?[/quote
Managed to get the bolt out without taking the sub frame off. Also managed to get a new pair of bolts from my local garage, they had a whole bag of them. Will now be replacing all the bolts holding the Fulcrums as one of the guys in the USA wrecked his Tiger when this happened, I was very lucky!!
Posted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:14 pm
by V8 burble
Rob, you were very lucky there!
Had you ignored that clonk for much longer, I hate to think of the consequences for both you and the Tiger.
It's a good idea to periodically check the torque on the various front suspension bolts/nuts.
The correct torque values are:
Upper fulcrum pin retaining bolts: 48 lbs.ft
Lower fulcrum pin retaining bolts: 32 lbs.ft
Upper swivel bearing nut: 52 lbs.ft
Lower swivel bearing nut: 33 lbs.ft
Lower swivel bearing to lower wishbone horizontal bolt/nut: 75 lbs.ft
Bump rubber nut on lower wishbone: 26 lbs.ft
Crossmember to frame bolts: 62 lbs.ft
Posted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 1:32 am
by Mal
Also make sure you are replacing the bolts with the correct grade of bolt.
Posted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 10:50 am
by V8 burble
A very good point.
Edited:
The originals were NOT high tensile Grade S with 3 markings on the heads.
The OEM bolts are marked AUTO and T.
See posts below.
Posted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 11:24 am
by martin172
V8 burble wrote:A very good point.
The originals were high tensile Grade S with 3 markings on the heads.
The ones from my car are grade T.
With a few exceptions like the roll bar bracket bolts and the bolts that hold the crossmember to the bodyshell, they're all grade T on my suspension.
Posted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 12:40 pm
by V8 burble
Maybe I have got my Ss and Ts mixed up there.
Has anybody got a definitive grade for the original UK bolts?
Posted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 2:35 pm
by V8 burble
Martin,
You are correct. The OEM fulcrum pin securing bolts are marked AUTO and T.
Two other points come to mind.
1.) Never, ever use stainless steel bolts in high stress situations such as suspension because they will fail prematurely, even though they look nice and shiny.
2.) The quickest and simplest way to break lower fulcrum pins and bolts is to reverse at speed on full lock.
Posted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 3:33 pm
by martin172
V8 burble wrote:Martin,
You are correct. The OEM fulcrum pin securing bolts are marked AUTO and T.
Two other points come to mind.
1.) Never, ever use stainless steel bolts in high stress situations such as suspension because they will fail prematurely, even though they look nice and shiny.
2.) The quickest and simplest way to break lower fulcrum pins and bolts is to reverse at speed on full lock.
Just goes to show that there's a first time for everything.
Posted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 3:55 pm
by V8 burble
Martin,
Well, after 746 posts and the law of averages, I suppose it was bound to happen sooner or later! :D :D
Posted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 5:20 pm
by meadowhog
I had a lower ball joint pop. That made one big banging noise. The wheel into the front wing.
Posted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 6:33 pm
by garyv8tiger
i always leave stuff like this to my specialist in mansfield