Clunking sound when turning left

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tigerman7347
Posts: 216
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 11:52 pm
Location: Devon

Clunking sound when turning left

Post by tigerman7347 » Tue Jun 11, 2013 8:50 pm

Any idea you guys on what is causing a clunking noise when turning left. I replaced the front springs late last year and seems to have happened since. Would appreciate any help .

Cheers Rob

bigbob
Posts: 379
Joined: Wed Aug 19, 2009 11:31 am

Post by bigbob » Tue Jun 11, 2013 11:25 pm

It may be that after a few beers you are driving into the kerb. If not, have you checked that the steering rack mountings are tight?

tigerman7347
Posts: 216
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 11:52 pm
Location: Devon

Re Clunking noise.

Post by tigerman7347 » Fri Jun 14, 2013 1:24 pm

Finally found what was causing Clunking noise. 1 bolt missing from lower fulcrum support, in fact all the bolts on both sides were loose! We were lucky not to have had an accident. Now scrounging around local garages for a new bolt.

tigerman7347
Posts: 216
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 11:52 pm
Location: Devon

Clunking noise

Post by tigerman7347 » Fri Jun 14, 2013 3:22 pm

Bolt sheared off .Anybody had this happen?

tigerman7347
Posts: 216
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 11:52 pm
Location: Devon

Re: Clunking noise

Post by tigerman7347 » Fri Jun 14, 2013 7:16 pm

tigerman7347 wrote:Bolt sheared off .Anybody had this happen?[/quote

Managed to get the bolt out without taking the sub frame off. Also managed to get a new pair of bolts from my local garage, they had a whole bag of them. Will now be replacing all the bolts holding the Fulcrums as one of the guys in the USA wrecked his Tiger when this happened, I was very lucky!!

V8 burble
Posts: 278
Joined: Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:13 am

Post by V8 burble » Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:14 pm

Rob, you were very lucky there!

Had you ignored that clonk for much longer, I hate to think of the consequences for both you and the Tiger.

It's a good idea to periodically check the torque on the various front suspension bolts/nuts.

The correct torque values are:
Upper fulcrum pin retaining bolts: 48 lbs.ft
Lower fulcrum pin retaining bolts: 32 lbs.ft
Upper swivel bearing nut: 52 lbs.ft
Lower swivel bearing nut: 33 lbs.ft
Lower swivel bearing to lower wishbone horizontal bolt/nut: 75 lbs.ft
Bump rubber nut on lower wishbone: 26 lbs.ft
Crossmember to frame bolts: 62 lbs.ft

Mal
Posts: 672
Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 5:39 am
Location: NZ

Post by Mal » Sat Jun 15, 2013 1:32 am

Also make sure you are replacing the bolts with the correct grade of bolt.
Image

V8 burble
Posts: 278
Joined: Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:13 am

Post by V8 burble » Sat Jun 15, 2013 10:50 am

A very good point.

Edited:
The originals were NOT high tensile Grade S with 3 markings on the heads.

The OEM bolts are marked AUTO and T.

See posts below.
Last edited by V8 burble on Sat Jun 15, 2013 2:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

martin172
Posts: 1022
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:14 pm

Post by martin172 » Sat Jun 15, 2013 11:24 am

V8 burble wrote:A very good point.
The originals were high tensile Grade S with 3 markings on the heads.
The ones from my car are grade T.
With a few exceptions like the roll bar bracket bolts and the bolts that hold the crossmember to the bodyshell, they're all grade T on my suspension.

V8 burble
Posts: 278
Joined: Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:13 am

Post by V8 burble » Sat Jun 15, 2013 12:40 pm

Maybe I have got my Ss and Ts mixed up there.

Has anybody got a definitive grade for the original UK bolts?

V8 burble
Posts: 278
Joined: Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:13 am

Post by V8 burble » Sat Jun 15, 2013 2:35 pm

Martin,

You are correct. The OEM fulcrum pin securing bolts are marked AUTO and T.

Two other points come to mind.

1.) Never, ever use stainless steel bolts in high stress situations such as suspension because they will fail prematurely, even though they look nice and shiny.
2.) The quickest and simplest way to break lower fulcrum pins and bolts is to reverse at speed on full lock.

martin172
Posts: 1022
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:14 pm

Post by martin172 » Sat Jun 15, 2013 3:33 pm

V8 burble wrote:Martin,

You are correct
.
The OEM fulcrum pin securing bolts are marked AUTO and T.

Two other points come to mind.

1.) Never, ever use stainless steel bolts in high stress situations such as suspension because they will fail prematurely, even though they look nice and shiny.
2.) The quickest and simplest way to break lower fulcrum pins and bolts is to reverse at speed on full lock.
Just goes to show that there's a first time for everything. :lol:

V8 burble
Posts: 278
Joined: Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:13 am

Post by V8 burble » Sat Jun 15, 2013 3:55 pm

Martin,

Well, after 746 posts and the law of averages, I suppose it was bound to happen sooner or later! :D :D

meadowhog
Posts: 392
Joined: Fri Dec 16, 2011 1:50 pm
Location: South Bucks

Post by meadowhog » Sat Jun 15, 2013 5:20 pm

I had a lower ball joint pop. That made one big banging noise. The wheel into the front wing.

garyv8tiger
Posts: 650
Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 10:57 am

Post by garyv8tiger » Sat Jun 15, 2013 6:33 pm

i always leave stuff like this to my specialist in mansfield

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