Gearbox Seals
Gearbox Seals
Started on the gearbox seals today.
The front seal is easy enough but I'm not sure how to remove the rear seal.
The manual is of little help so is it a case of removing the seal however you can and tapping the new one into place with some improvised tooling?
Thanks.
Oh, and what did you use to seal the bolts in the font seal retainer?
The front seal is easy enough but I'm not sure how to remove the rear seal.
The manual is of little help so is it a case of removing the seal however you can and tapping the new one into place with some improvised tooling?
Thanks.
Oh, and what did you use to seal the bolts in the font seal retainer?
toploader seals
Toploader Heaven in Oklahoma sells a kit of special tools to overhaul a toploader including seal installation tools. It also includes a CD . It sounds like a snip at $60 plus shipping.
In the absence of a proper seal puller, a crowbar or large screwdriver will do the removal job of the tail shaft seal.
When fitting the new seals, use a suitable socket or piece of gas pipe etc and gradually drift them into position, making sure that they are lined up perfectly “square”. Do not try to whack them into place with one blow!
It is a good idea to put a light smear of RTV sealant around the outside of the seal's metal housing before drifting.
Any decent RTV silicone sealant such as the one below from Granville will seal the threads on the bearing retainer bolts.
NB If instead you decide to use a locking sealant such as Loctite (medium strength), do NOT overdose on it because, in a worst case scenario, it can leak into the gearbox and lock everything solid! It has happened, believe it or not.
Amazingly, the sealing of the threads on the bearing retainer bolts is something which is omitted from Tom Monroe's “How to Rebuild your Small Block Ford” (page 136).
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville-RTV ... 256aee348a
http://www.granvilleoil.com/product_info.php?prod_id=49
Thoroughly clean and degrease all threads before applying sealant.
Also put a light smear of gearbox oil on the lips of the seals.
When fitting the new seals, use a suitable socket or piece of gas pipe etc and gradually drift them into position, making sure that they are lined up perfectly “square”. Do not try to whack them into place with one blow!
It is a good idea to put a light smear of RTV sealant around the outside of the seal's metal housing before drifting.
Any decent RTV silicone sealant such as the one below from Granville will seal the threads on the bearing retainer bolts.
NB If instead you decide to use a locking sealant such as Loctite (medium strength), do NOT overdose on it because, in a worst case scenario, it can leak into the gearbox and lock everything solid! It has happened, believe it or not.
Amazingly, the sealing of the threads on the bearing retainer bolts is something which is omitted from Tom Monroe's “How to Rebuild your Small Block Ford” (page 136).
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville-RTV ... 256aee348a
http://www.granvilleoil.com/product_info.php?prod_id=49
Thoroughly clean and degrease all threads before applying sealant.
Also put a light smear of gearbox oil on the lips of the seals.
Thanks for the info guys.
Just ordered a tube of sealant from the link. Thanks G!
I managed to find a correct sized socket for the front seal so hopefully I'll find one for the rear.
I'm sure I'll be able to conjure something up.
Perhaps one of the toploader tool sets from the US would be a nice addition to the club's loan tools?
Just ordered a tube of sealant from the link. Thanks G!
I managed to find a correct sized socket for the front seal so hopefully I'll find one for the rear.
I'm sure I'll be able to conjure something up.
Perhaps one of the toploader tool sets from the US would be a nice addition to the club's loan tools?
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- Posts: 650
- Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 10:57 am
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- Posts: 650
- Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 10:57 am
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- Posts: 650
- Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 10:57 am
David Kee fits an air vent/breather (see first photo on link below) to the tailshaft housing in his remanufactured Toploaders.
http://www.davidkeetoploaders.com/remanufactured.htm
The DKT air vent part number is DK296-66 and is priced at $6.50.
Obviously the housing would need to be removed, then drilled and tapped for the new breather.
It is then usual to weld or seal up the original breather hole in the top cover.
Alternatively, something like one of HTL's vented KMV plugs MAY possibly fit the bill, but you would need to check with HTL first that the venting pressure is correct for the Toploader.
http://htluk.co.uk/Products/metal_oil_fill_plug
http://www.davidkeetoploaders.com/remanufactured.htm
The DKT air vent part number is DK296-66 and is priced at $6.50.
Obviously the housing would need to be removed, then drilled and tapped for the new breather.
It is then usual to weld or seal up the original breather hole in the top cover.
Alternatively, something like one of HTL's vented KMV plugs MAY possibly fit the bill, but you would need to check with HTL first that the venting pressure is correct for the Toploader.
http://htluk.co.uk/Products/metal_oil_fill_plug
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- Posts: 650
- Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 10:57 am
Dan Williams Transmissions was one of the first to fit an air vent to the Toploader and this has been copied by David Kee.
DWT used a Stewart Warner (Alemite) air vent number 313650.
Alemite 313650
http://www.alemite.com/catalog/details. ... _breathers
Available from Tooldex ($5.35) or Amazon ($3.69):
http://www.tooldex.com/alemite-313650-a ... 65365.html
http://www.amazon.com/Alemite-313650-Ai ... B009K4ZPDE
Martin,
You had better get a job lot ordered for the Club!
DWT used a Stewart Warner (Alemite) air vent number 313650.
Alemite 313650
http://www.alemite.com/catalog/details. ... _breathers
Available from Tooldex ($5.35) or Amazon ($3.69):
http://www.tooldex.com/alemite-313650-a ... 65365.html
http://www.amazon.com/Alemite-313650-Ai ... B009K4ZPDE
Martin,
You had better get a job lot ordered for the Club!