Gearbox Seals

Post any Tech Tips or any matters and questions relating to upkeep
V8 burble
Posts: 278
Joined: Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:13 am

Post by V8 burble » Fri May 31, 2013 5:29 pm

I suspect that you may be one of a very small select group who wants one.

Before going any further, I would ask HTL for technical advice about one of their breathers and avoid the hassle of ordering an Amelite one from the US:

http://htluk.co.uk/Products/metal_oil_fill_plug

The KMF vents to atmosphere similar to the Amelite, whereas the KMV has a pre-set valve which is activated at 3.0-3.6 psi.

HTL
Tel: 01584 873012

garyv8tiger
Posts: 650
Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 10:57 am

Post by garyv8tiger » Fri May 31, 2013 5:31 pm

ring brian postle ask him for the guys number who fixed my box .hes round the midlands .he will have them or know where to get them job done .its a pretty standard valve i think

martin172
Posts: 1022
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:14 pm

Post by martin172 » Fri May 31, 2013 11:38 pm

I didn't get an e-amail back so I'll think about plan B next week.

martin172
Posts: 1022
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:14 pm

Post by martin172 » Sat Jun 15, 2013 11:59 pm

Plan B is in action thanks to a very generous Tiger friend overseas. :D

Next question.

In the gearchange linkage, there are 2 large and very thin brass washers.

Does anyone have a diagram that describes where they fit.

On mine they are together directly behind the U shaped bracket behind the spring, if that makes sense.
I just want to make sure I've rebuilt it correctly.

Also, one of them has cracked over the years.
Anyone tried to make one?
I can't see it being difficult but wondered what grade of brass they used.

Ta.

V8 burble
Posts: 278
Joined: Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:13 am

Post by V8 burble » Sun Jun 16, 2013 10:04 am

On mine they are together directly behind the U shaped bracket behind the spring
Sounds right to me.

You are on your own with making replacements unless somebody has some spares sitting at the back of their garage. Ask your US contact.

NB
It is very easy to accidentally knock the shift levers out of position when replacing the engine and gearbox and then later wonder why you cannot get certain gears.

See earlier post on Tech Tips (Improve your Toploaders's gearchange/gearshift-9/02/2012).

martin172
Posts: 1022
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:14 pm

Post by martin172 » Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:58 am

I've ordered a sheet of 0.005" brass off the 'net to make a replacement.

I haven't gone for a fancy grade, just plain old brass as I expect that is what the originals are.

bigbob
Posts: 379
Joined: Wed Aug 19, 2009 11:31 am

Post by bigbob » Mon Jun 17, 2013 5:06 pm

Please note that Brian Postle has retired [which is why no answer to your e-mail] Now run by Andy Carter.... sunbeam.spares@yahoo.co.uk

garyv8tiger
Posts: 650
Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 10:57 am

Post by garyv8tiger » Mon Jun 17, 2013 8:56 pm

bigbob wrote:Please note that Brian Postle has retired [which is why no answer to your e-mail] Now run by Andy Carter.... sunbeam.spares@yahoo.co.uk
brian still has that email addy .i wouldnt have thought the new owner would know where my box was repaired at hence saying to contact brian

martin172
Posts: 1022
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:14 pm

Post by martin172 » Mon Jun 24, 2013 1:21 pm

A couple more questions.

Gaskets.

When I shortly come to reassembling the gearbox I was going to fit the gaskets as they are and reassemble to box.
I read somewhere of someone using a gasket sealant. Is this necessary or will the gaskets be fine as they are?

Bolts

When I removed the tail housing, I noted that the bolts and spring washers weren't very tight and had likely loosened on service.
Has anyone else found this and what did you do to prevent a reoccurrence?

I plan on sealing the bolt threads with an RTV sealant as recommended earlier. I wonder if that will suffice?

Opinions please.

Thanks.

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