Tracking On A Tiger
Tracking On A Tiger
Where is the best place to get the tracking set on a Tiger? As the track rod ends need to be disconnected I'm guessing my local tyre place isn't going to be too keen on taking the job on, although I could be wrong.
Tim, I suggest that you find a local garage that has the proper tracking equipment, such as the Dunlop Optical Tracking Alignment Gauge.
Before you go, it is best to do a few checks yourself first.
My standard Tiger rack has 3.25 turns from full lock to full lock. I guess that your one is the same.
You must ensure 3 things:
1. The front wheels must be pointing straight ahead.
2. The steering wheel must be in its normal straight ahead position with the spokes (on a standard wheel) horizontal.
3. The steering rack is centralised (i.e. 1.625 turns inwards from full lock). This is very important.
If the steering rack is “off-centre”, you will need to remove the lower steering column assembly and refit it in order that ALL the above conditions are satisfied.
Only then can the tracking be checked and adjusted by means of the TREs.
The toe-in should be 3mm or 1/8 inch.
It may be a good idea to take a new pair of trackrod ends with you, just in case your existing ones get damaged. You can get new units from Brian Postle at the Sunbeam Spares Company or buy Morris 1000 trackrod ends locally.
Before you go, it is best to do a few checks yourself first.
My standard Tiger rack has 3.25 turns from full lock to full lock. I guess that your one is the same.
You must ensure 3 things:
1. The front wheels must be pointing straight ahead.
2. The steering wheel must be in its normal straight ahead position with the spokes (on a standard wheel) horizontal.
3. The steering rack is centralised (i.e. 1.625 turns inwards from full lock). This is very important.
If the steering rack is “off-centre”, you will need to remove the lower steering column assembly and refit it in order that ALL the above conditions are satisfied.
Only then can the tracking be checked and adjusted by means of the TREs.
The toe-in should be 3mm or 1/8 inch.
It may be a good idea to take a new pair of trackrod ends with you, just in case your existing ones get damaged. You can get new units from Brian Postle at the Sunbeam Spares Company or buy Morris 1000 trackrod ends locally.
Thanks very much for that, especially the number of turns to get the rack centralised.
The reason I've removed the front sub frame is because the steering had become very notchy & stiff, especially after a long journey when everything is hot. The good news is that the rack seems fine, although it was bone dry with no lubrication, and the lower swivel joints were in a similar state. Luckily I seem to have caught them before any significant wear has taken place as there is no play in either the joints or the rack, but the gaiters & track rod ends have had it and there is a very small amount of play in the steering column universal joints, so they'll be getting changed.
Other racks I've changed have required grease, but the manual says to lubricate the rack with gear oil. I assume that oil is best?
The reason I've removed the front sub frame is because the steering had become very notchy & stiff, especially after a long journey when everything is hot. The good news is that the rack seems fine, although it was bone dry with no lubrication, and the lower swivel joints were in a similar state. Luckily I seem to have caught them before any significant wear has taken place as there is no play in either the joints or the rack, but the gaiters & track rod ends have had it and there is a very small amount of play in the steering column universal joints, so they'll be getting changed.
Other racks I've changed have required grease, but the manual says to lubricate the rack with gear oil. I assume that oil is best?
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- Location: Devon
Steering rack
Just done the Bellows on my rack as they were bone dry. I too the rack off, turned it upright , sealed one end of the bellow and used a small funnel to pour in the oil.
Rob
Rob