Tracking On A Tiger

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Tim
Posts: 77
Joined: Fri May 06, 2011 4:00 pm
Location: Wiltshire

Tracking On A Tiger

Post by Tim » Mon Jul 02, 2012 11:00 pm

Where is the best place to get the tracking set on a Tiger? As the track rod ends need to be disconnected I'm guessing my local tyre place isn't going to be too keen on taking the job on, although I could be wrong.

V8 burble
Posts: 278
Joined: Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:13 am

Post by V8 burble » Tue Jul 03, 2012 3:11 pm

Tim, I suggest that you find a local garage that has the proper tracking equipment, such as the Dunlop Optical Tracking Alignment Gauge.

Before you go, it is best to do a few checks yourself first.

My standard Tiger rack has 3.25 turns from full lock to full lock. I guess that your one is the same.

You must ensure 3 things:
1. The front wheels must be pointing straight ahead.
2. The steering wheel must be in its normal straight ahead position with the spokes (on a standard wheel) horizontal.
3. The steering rack is centralised (i.e. 1.625 turns inwards from full lock). This is very important.

If the steering rack is “off-centre”, you will need to remove the lower steering column assembly and refit it in order that ALL the above conditions are satisfied.
Only then can the tracking be checked and adjusted by means of the TREs.

The toe-in should be 3mm or 1/8 inch.

It may be a good idea to take a new pair of trackrod ends with you, just in case your existing ones get damaged. You can get new units from Brian Postle at the Sunbeam Spares Company or buy Morris 1000 trackrod ends locally.

Tim
Posts: 77
Joined: Fri May 06, 2011 4:00 pm
Location: Wiltshire

Post by Tim » Thu Jul 05, 2012 12:56 am

Thanks very much for that, especially the number of turns to get the rack centralised.

The reason I've removed the front sub frame is because the steering had become very notchy & stiff, especially after a long journey when everything is hot. The good news is that the rack seems fine, although it was bone dry with no lubrication, and the lower swivel joints were in a similar state. Luckily I seem to have caught them before any significant wear has taken place as there is no play in either the joints or the rack, but the gaiters & track rod ends have had it and there is a very small amount of play in the steering column universal joints, so they'll be getting changed.

Other racks I've changed have required grease, but the manual says to lubricate the rack with gear oil. I assume that oil is best?

V8 burble
Posts: 278
Joined: Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:13 am

Post by V8 burble » Thu Jul 05, 2012 9:33 am

Yes, use 0.5 pint of EP 90 oil and follow the manual's instructions on Steering (Section J, page 10).

tigerman7347
Posts: 216
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 11:52 pm
Location: Devon

Steering rack

Post by tigerman7347 » Thu Jul 05, 2012 8:21 pm

Just done the Bellows on my rack as they were bone dry. I too the rack off, turned it upright , sealed one end of the bellow and used a small funnel to pour in the oil.

Rob

V8 burble
Posts: 278
Joined: Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:13 am

Post by V8 burble » Fri Jul 06, 2012 10:42 am

Just done the Bellows on my rack as they were bone dry. I too the rack off, turned it upright , sealed one end of the bellow and used a small funnel to pour in the oil.
...with the pinion end uppermost, of course. :D

Tomaselli
Posts: 942
Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2005 2:03 pm
Location: Cheshire, North West England

Post by Tomaselli » Sat Aug 23, 2014 12:53 pm

V8 burble wrote:The toe-in should be 3mm or 1/8 inch.
This is exactly what was done on mine yesterday, car seems more stable now at speed :mrgreen:

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