I have just done a back-to-back test of the original Churchill spring compressor RG.50D and my home-made one.
The home-made one was faster because it was lighter, less cumbersome and it could also be wound up/released more quickly.
To recap on the specification of the home-made spring compressor:
A piece of 13mm threaded rod about 510mm long
2 deep nuts or threaded bar sections at least 35mm long
A thick steel washer about 40mm in diameter with a 20mm hole
A piece of circular or rectangular (4mm +) steel plate to fit over the lower shocker mounts.
The plate should be drilled at 107mm centres for two 10mm holes.
The central hole (about 20mm) should be large enough to allow for radial movement as the tool is tightened/released.
One further refinement is to drill a small hole near one end of the threaded rod to take a 3 inch (75mm) nail or similar. This is to stop the rod turning as the nut is tightened/released.
Alternatively, gently grip the end of the rod with Mole grips or pliers.
Do make sure that the threaded rod is lubricated before use.
For a photo of the home-made spring compressor, see 2nd post of this thread.
front suspension assembly
Removing or refitting the 4 crossmember securing bolts:
To minimise the risk of a crossmember securing bolt/socket/extension disappearing into the CM's internals, it is advisable to use a deep socket (3/4 inch or 19mm).
Also use duct tape to secure the socket to the extension(s).
This does still not guarantee that the above will not happen.
If the worst comes to the worst, securely attach a magnet to a length of thin welding rod and retrieve the bolt.
To minimise the risk of a crossmember securing bolt/socket/extension disappearing into the CM's internals, it is advisable to use a deep socket (3/4 inch or 19mm).
Also use duct tape to secure the socket to the extension(s).
This does still not guarantee that the above will not happen.
If the worst comes to the worst, securely attach a magnet to a length of thin welding rod and retrieve the bolt.