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Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 6:25 pm
by Brad1380
Well not a lot of progress on the Tiger due to the building project, but i have reached a milestone with that now so hope to pick up again on the restoration soon.


Done these so long agao now i've forgotten where they fit.

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Not a good idea pulling the torch out of the welder when its running, fixed it eventually & fitted a euro torch conversion.

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Ebay bargain scatter sheild, post shot blasting.

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Took the hood frame apart, i thought matching the grey would be a problem, but once the vinyl was off the colour was much lighter, match was just standard light grey.

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The flywheel is very rippled & with some cracking....

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Tank dipped the block, then ran a Mercer bore gauge after a light hone to tidy the cylinders up.

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I set the gauage at 3.803 as per the manual, i was getting readings less than this, i.e smaller diameter, but even with that the block looks well worn, with no.6 piston especially going wander about, thats a difference of 65 thou top to bottom.
Oh well i guess it opens up a whole new world of engine choices i suppose.

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Brads Tiger

Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 11:21 pm
by redbaron
Brad,
the bellhousing that you have is not a Scatter Shield,but a cast iron 302/351 truck bellhousing.Dual bolt pattern transmission.
This iron bellhousing will shatter if the flywheel disintegrates,a true scatter shield is made from ballistic steel.
Lakewood are a reputable company for such,although fitting into a Tiger is tight due to the drawn depth of the B/Hsg.
Shelby American did make some Hi Nodular iron B/Hsgs in the sixties,yours is from the seventies.
Bit to heavy for a sports car.

Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 7:35 am
by Brad1380
It is heavy!, oh well i'll sell it on again.

Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 5:19 pm
by Brad1380
Been looking at a RS engine from Realsteel, not that expensive really when you start to tally up the parts & machining.

http://www.realsteel.co.uk/section2a.pdf

is there anything i should swap over or be aware of? any help would be appriciated as i'm new to V8's.

Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 9:11 pm
by pushrod
The RS motors are good value.

As a comparison I spent more in parts and machining costs on my 260, that's without any labour.

If I hadn't wanted to stay with a 260 I'd have gone for one of the RS 302's in a heartbeat.

Lou.

Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2014 4:46 pm
by Brad1380
Does anyone know if the head ports on the RS motor are the same as standard? so i don't have to fabricate new exhaust manifolds like Mal did.

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 11:24 pm
by meadowhog
Those panels look like the inside covers of the soft top frame. They fit to the vertical hinged part when roof is up.

Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 9:24 am
by Mal
Brad1380 wrote:Does anyone know if the head ports on the RS motor are the same as standard? so i don't have to fabricate new exhaust manifolds like Mal did.
My heads were GT40P heads which are from Ford. Pretty sure they are the only head made by Ford with different a plug angle which causes the problem. As for aftermarket heads I don't know.

Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 3:57 pm
by Brad1380
meadowhog wrote:Those panels look like the inside covers of the soft top frame. They fit to the vertical hinged part when roof is up.
Thanks, i guessed they were part of the hood from the colour but i never took a photo of them in place.

Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 4:03 pm
by Brad1380
Mal wrote:
Brad1380 wrote:Does anyone know if the head ports on the RS motor are the same as standard? so i don't have to fabricate new exhaust manifolds like Mal did.
My heads were GT40P heads which are from Ford. Pretty sure they are the only head made by Ford with different a plug angle which causes the problem. As for aftermarket heads I don't know.
I know the GT40 heads are the best, thats why you have them ). I need to have a long chat with RealSteel, but first i need a solid body, hopefully get onto that again now as i'm fed up building....

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Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:44 pm
by Mal
Brad1380 wrote:
Mal wrote:
Brad1380 wrote:Does anyone know if the head ports on the RS motor are the same as standard? so i don't have to fabricate new exhaust manifolds like Mal did.
My heads were GT40P heads which are from Ford. Pretty sure they are the only head made by Ford with different a plug angle which causes the problem. As for aftermarket heads I don't know.
I know the GT40 heads are the best, thats why you have them ). I need to have a long chat with RealSteel, but first i need a solid body, hopefully get onto that again now as i'm fed up building....

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Brad my heads are GT40P heads not GT40. tHE GT40 HEADS have the same spark plug angle as the 260-289 302 heads.

Is that another restoration project ?. Do you have a before pic.

Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 6:41 pm
by Brad1380
Mal, thats probably the best photo, before it was rather dark in there, i can tell you that as it was an old cow shed the floor was on a slope for all the cow urine to flow out, i had to take 120 tonnes out of there to get the new floor base right. You can see the old floor marks on the walls.

Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 9:47 pm
by Brad1380
This was rather bent up before, flattened it out & sorted out the broken latch.

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First test of the repaired welder as the sprung pistons had come away from the aduster.

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Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 6:35 pm
by Brad1380
Got this far with the Brembo disc spacers before the F1 race, will finish then off when the fasteners arrive.

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Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 5:41 pm
by Brad1380
The repair panel for the OS front part of the rear wheel arch was a bit out.

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Had to let in a 3/16 slither to get it looking right, need to make up the inner wing section next.

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The welder is going better now with a proper torch conversion.

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