Tim
Cross member
Nice clean work
FYI: I often find the lower fulcrum pivots have been installed backwards by unknowing garage techs. The shorter distance from the notch to the bushing faces forward. another 2-cents
Here is the finished X member with my own Wilwood brake up grade. I have put back 4 shims on each of the top wish bones, as this is what came of the Alpine axle, I assume this is correct for the Tiger. I was going to build up the axle on the car, but in the interest of time, while waiting for the engine to come back, decided to go ahead when I saw Mal's axle jacking jig. Here are the pics.
Tim
Tim
Four shims is what my Tiger has. It looks real nice Tim. I know exactly how much work that is as I have just done the same thing for my Tiger.
I stiffened it the same as Oneoffive has shown and also welded on a 3mm plate over the front of the X member where it narrows under the cut outs for the rack. Mine had cracked there.
I had to set mine up for the MX5 rack so I made a jig so I could raise and lower the rack, then measure for toe change ( bump steer ) through the entire suspension travel. It was surprising the difference 3mm in rack height made to toe change.
Cheers Mal
I stiffened it the same as Oneoffive has shown and also welded on a 3mm plate over the front of the X member where it narrows under the cut outs for the rack. Mine had cracked there.
I had to set mine up for the MX5 rack so I made a jig so I could raise and lower the rack, then measure for toe change ( bump steer ) through the entire suspension travel. It was surprising the difference 3mm in rack height made to toe change.
Cheers Mal
Mal. I'm in the workshop looking at my axle, thinking there must be a way of setting the toe angle while off the car, looked at your post and I have come up with this. Please anyone correct me if I'm wrong. I made these simple spring compressors when I removed the axle they are M12 studding with a bit of water pipe welded on one end. This fits into the shock bracket allowing the swivel required to release the lower wishbone and spring. top end through shock tower with an M12 nut.
If I pre load both springs using my compressors onto the front Gap gauges. with a straight edge on the discs I must be able to set toe angle. I will have to square the axle to a datum line. If anyone can see a prob with this, please post it. Also with the axle levelled I must be able to check camber with a camber gauge off the disc. Having preloaded the axle, can I tighten the bushes.
Tim
If I pre load both springs using my compressors onto the front Gap gauges. with a straight edge on the discs I must be able to set toe angle. I will have to square the axle to a datum line. If anyone can see a prob with this, please post it. Also with the axle levelled I must be able to check camber with a camber gauge off the disc. Having preloaded the axle, can I tighten the bushes.
Tim
As this all started with the cross member rebuild I'll post the finished project here. nearly done firing up this weekend. Set myself a target of 3 months but have run over by two weeks. The exhaust is by zero, ie zero back pressure. 2 1/4" straight through with a muffler £900 all in. sales@zeroexhausts.co.uk
Tim
Tim
tigertim wrote:Mal. I'm in the workshop looking at my axle, thinking there must be a way of setting the toe angle while off the car, looked at your post and I have come up with this. Please anyone correct me if I'm wrong. I made these simple spring compressors when I removed the axle they are M12 studding with a bit of water pipe welded on one end. This fits into the shock bracket allowing the swivel required to release the lower wishbone and spring. top end through shock tower with an M12 nut.
If I pre load both springs using my compressors onto the front Gap gauges. with a straight edge on the discs I must be able to set toe angle. I will have to square the axle to a datum line. If anyone can see a prob with this, please post it. Also with the axle levelled I must be able to check camber with a camber gauge off the disc. Having preloaded the axle, can I tighten the bushes.
Tim
Tim
The car is coming along nicely. Did you try using your theory for adjusting the Toe ?. Those bars I am using are for bump steer measuring. All the info here. One of the rules and regulations we have to perform on scratch built and modified cars here in NZ. http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infos ... mation.pdf
http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infos ... cedure.pdf
My tyres have a central groove and so far all I have done is measure the difference from the front of the tyres to the rear of the tyres. If the measurement is approx 5mm less across the front compared to the rear measurement then it seems fine. One day I will take it in and have it done on a machine but for now I am getting no abnormal tyre wear.
Cheers.
Bob. One of the joy's of living in the country side.
Mal. No I didn't, but the guy who did the exhaust had a Dunlop tracking gauge, so I gave him a hand and we did it when I picked up the car. Interestingly one turn on of the ball joint was enough to go from toe out to 15* to much toe in. Dizzi dressed tonight only fluids priming oil pump and prop shaft to go on. Fingers crossed for start tomorrow.
Tim
Mal. No I didn't, but the guy who did the exhaust had a Dunlop tracking gauge, so I gave him a hand and we did it when I picked up the car. Interestingly one turn on of the ball joint was enough to go from toe out to 15* to much toe in. Dizzi dressed tonight only fluids priming oil pump and prop shaft to go on. Fingers crossed for start tomorrow.
Tim