hot running

gregs302 · Post by **gregs302** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 12:05 am

Took Tiger down to Beaulieu yesteday ,a round trip of 220 miles.On motorway she runs at 80 degrees all day but we're talking uk motorways here and took an hour to do 3 miles on m3 due to smash. Sitting there the guage climbed to nearly 100 degrees,the electric fan was on and tiger conked out.Turn over was very slow but cought and fired,this happened 4 times.When we got moving Tiger coughed and spluttered but cleared after a couple of miles.I think we were lucky.What caused this? What is heat soak?Is fan drawing too many amps,is carb too big(600cfm).oil pressure kept up and lost no coolant, didn't pop cork.Is this normal? Thanks Greg.

gtsmrt · Post by **gtsmrt** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:35 am

Hi Greg,

The heat issue in traffic is and has always been an issue with Tiger's. I am only assuming by your forum name that you may have a 302. I would be fairly confident in saying that heat soak was the issue when you were out for your drive. Heat soak is basically all the heat generated by your engine being transfered into all the other components in the engine bay. If you took the top off your carburettor, you probably would have had no fuel left in the bowls (basically evapourated due to the heat). Depending on your setup, a heat spacer should be installed between the carby and intake manifold to help reduce heat transfer. It will not be your electric fan causing the issue. Is your engine modified? Make sure that your cooling system is in perfect condition before heading towards modifications to your cooling system.

Hope this helps.

Regards, Robin.

gregs302 · Post by **gregs302** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 3:30 pm

Happened again last night on trip to Watford classics on the green.I think Robin is spot on with heat soak,but it has only just started.holley site talks about percolation,I do get a puddle on perfomer intake.it recomends a phenolic heat spacer or shield.Anyone use these ,can you suggest thickness,where to get them,etc.modifications by Dave Herning Motorsport(10 years ago at cost of £10k+)include tubular manifold,2" ss ex,Mallory dual point dizzy,600cfm holley,T5 gearbox,alloy cyl heads,new302 block,sbfpro race crank balancer,trw forged f top pistons,full engine balance.alloy water pump etc,etc.this guy knows his stuff,Tiger pulls like stink.by the way how do you post pics? Thanks,Greg.

gtsmrt · Post by **gtsmrt** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 10:31 pm

Hi Greg,

Depending on the clearance between the bonnet and air cleaner will really depends on the thickness of the heat spacer. Go for the highest one you can fit, but at a minimum go for a 1/2" spacer. Holley also produce a heat shield which may be beneficial. If your car has not always done this, it would definitely be worth getting your cooling system checked out. Have you had any other changes of late?
Posting a picture is a bit tricky if you have never done it before unless you are on webshots or similar. You may have to email your pictures to someone who can post them for you. I would definitely like to see your Tiger pictures. The engine sound potent

.

Regards, Robin.

gregs302 · Post by **gregs302** » Sat Aug 08, 2009 7:01 pm

Cheked thermostat,flushed rad,refilled with 50% anti freeze and distilled water.I have 5 blade ally fan,fan shroud and kenlowe fan(sucks tissue into rad),and LAT bonnet.On a clear drive ,giving it some(rude not to)i run at 180-190 no probs.Tested sitting on drive for 20 mins and still hit 220 but no boiling over.Took for spin and cooled to 190 quickly, but coughed and splutterd,almost back fireing through exhaust.I've adjusted idle cos that dropped off to.Would you guys say these figures are ok or not,what temp do you have your fans cutting in and is 900rpm idle set to high for a 302,would lower idle help sitting still temps?Please post your thoughts ,Greg(i want to get to the national).

gtsmrt · Post by **gtsmrt** » Sun Aug 09, 2009 2:17 am

Hi Greg,

If your cooling system is 100% then you may have to look at other areas. Is you temperature gauge reading correctly or is your timing out or points? What radiator are you running? If your engine cruising temperature is 180-190, I would set it 5-10 degrees (even set at 190 to come on) above the running temp so when you stop in traffic the fan can be more effective. By lowering your idle speed, it may make your current situation worse. Hope you get it sorted soon, the nationals are a great event.

Regards, Robin.

H, Sunny 65 · Post by **H, Sunny 65** » Sun Aug 09, 2009 9:51 am

Hi Greg
How old is the Kenlowe fan, you are using, does it have the curved blades? With the later type fitted, my tiger will now sit in traffic for an hour + with no rise in temp about 85c, if i turn it off, temp rises very quickly. Allso you must check your timing, if it's out, would cause some of the probs you are having.
Are you loosing any coolant? as any air in system does not help, and may point to start of a gasket fault, water in cylinder causing the missfire, you would prob see white smoke if this was case, so hope not, be nice to see you at national. Hope this is some help.
Harry

JAYANDSHEL · Post by **JAYANDSHEL** » Sun Aug 09, 2009 1:56 pm

Picked up on you observation about back fire through exhaust this can point to unburnt fuel entering the exhaust system and is ignited by the heat in the exhaust system. Generally this points to an ignition prob, what ignition system are you using?

V Mad · Post by **V Mad** » Mon Aug 10, 2009 9:09 pm

I have a 1 inch spacer on my Holley, and get no problems with the carb. If you have tubular headers they can raise temperatures in the engine bay which does not help; some use exhaust wrap to help with this.

I have the LAT bonnet with vents so this may help to release trapped heat.

Re your problems with poor cranking after cut out; If you have an alternator that should keep the battery charged although a low idle speed and/or wrong pulley size (too large) might be causing problems. If you have the old dynamo that will not be able to cope with an electric fan in heavy traffic.

gregs302 · Post by **gregs302** » Mon Aug 10, 2009 9:19 pm

i'm using mallory unilite dizzy(no vacuum) and fan is 12"kenlowe about 2 years old.Leaned mixture,got nice idle but engine ran on.Maybe i was lean in first place,because mixture screws were less than 1 1/2 turns out.Doesnt running lean=running hotter?

gtsmrt · Post by **gtsmrt** » Tue Aug 11, 2009 12:17 am

Hi Greg,

If your engine is running on, I am 99% sure that your ignition is out. Have you had a chance to check your ignition timing? If you have leaned down your carby, it would be worth checking you air/fuel ratio on a dyno or exhaust gas analyser. This will also cause hotter running.

Regards, Robin.

gregs302 · Post by **gregs302** » Tue Aug 11, 2009 12:46 am

Yes ,going to order new rotor arm and cap.Rotor contact wobbles on its arm and mallory unilite needs to be spot on according to real steel,then i'll re do idle mix

gtsmrt · Post by **gtsmrt** » Tue Aug 11, 2009 1:02 am

gregs302 wrote:Yes ,going to order new rotor arm and cap.Rotor contact wobbles on its arm and mallory unilite needs to be spot on according to real steel,then i'll re do idle mix

Good to hear that you have found what is hopefully the problem. Keep us informed.

Regards, Robin.

gregs302 · Post by **gregs302** » Wed Aug 12, 2009 9:58 pm

Seem to be getting there,car fine on run,sat on drive for 1/2hour and guage climbed to200/210 and stayed there, no water loss,turned off, no run on.But then header tank bubbled and spat out trough overflow.i'm filling to 1" below neck,is that too high.Funny thing is i lined cabin with that heat matting stuff 2 weeks ago,we're lovely and cool now ennines not!

gregs302 · Post by **gregs302** » Sun Aug 16, 2009 6:01 pm

Not looking vey good.Everyting fine on the move but, stationary temp rises,after 10 mins up to boiling point.Replced 13lb header cap but still overflows.Can only assume system is loosing pressure allowing water to boil.Sounds like head gasket,ouch!Probably won't make national now.

sunbeamtiger.co.uk

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